The common elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) is a shrub that grows wild in much of Southern Ontario as well as in many areas in Eastern North America. Elderberry is not a significant commercial crop but is commonly grown in home gardens.
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Sambucus canadensis, the American black elderberry, Canada elderberry, or common elderberry, is a species of elderberry native to a large area of North America east of the Rocky Mountains, south to Bolivia. It grows in a variety of conditions including both wet and dry soils, primarily in sunny locations.
It is a deciduous suckering shrub growing to 6 meters (20 feet) tall. The leaves are arranged in opposite pairs, pinnate with five to nine leaflets, the leaflets around 10 centimeters (4 inches) long and 5 cm broad. In summer, it bears large (20–30 cm or 8–12 in diameter) cymbals of white flowers above the foliage, the individual flowers 5–6 millimeters (3⁄16–1⁄4 in) diameter, with five petals.
The fruit (known as an elderberry) is a dark purple to black berry 3–5 mm diameter, produced in drooping clusters in the fall.
Inedible parts of the plant, such as the leaves, stems, roots, seeds and unripe fruits, can be toxic at lethal doses due to the presence of cyanogenic glycosides and alkaloids. Traditional methods of consuming elderberry include jams, jellies, and syrups, all of which cook down the fruit and strain out the seeds.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
American elderberry can be grown in a variety of different sun locations, making it an ideal pick for nearly any spot in your yard or landscape. Though it can handle it all, it prefers a spot that boasts full sun or partial shade.
Temperature and Humidity
American elderberry isn’t picky about its temperature conditions, given its wide range of hardiness zones. That being said, it’s a plant that would much rather be cool and moist than hot and dry. Though it prefers temperate weather, it does not have any special humidity needs—but it loves rain.
Watering
When it comes to the American elderberry, drought is pretty much the one thing it cannot tolerate. Your elderberry will need around an inch or two of water weekly during its peak growth period or during times of extremely hot or dry weather. Remember, the plant’s roots are very close to the surface, so if the top layer of soil is dry, it’s a good indication that they are too. As long as you have well-draining soil, there is little risk in overwatering the American elderberry.
Soil
For the most successful bush, plant your American elderberry in a soil that is humusy and moist. That being said, the plant can tolerate a variety of soil conditions, but whatever you choose must be well-draining. A neutral-to-acidic pH level is recommended as well. When planting your American elderberry, choose a spot that isn’t prone to standing water (the plants have shallow roots and can rot easily) and plant each shrub at least a few feet apart from one another to allow them to grow freely.
Fertilizing
While fertilizing your American elderberry plant isn’t totally necessary, it is a great way to ensure ample fruit growth. For starters, consider amending the soil you plant your bush in with manure or compost to increase its nutrient density. Beyond that, fertilizer your bush every spring with a 10-10-10 fertilizer mixture.
Pruning
This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you’re trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case.
You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub.
Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub’s appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky.
Propagation
Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormones, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade.
Weed control and mulching
Weeds may be suppressed by shallow, careful cultivation in rows and between plants. Mulch such as straw, sawdust or well-composted material around the plants may also help control weeds. A hedgerow of vigorous elderberry plants will help suppress weeds. Perennial weeds such as quackgrass and goldenrod are difficult to control within the hedgerow and should be eliminated prior to planting or as they appear within the planting.
Potting and Repotting
Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It’s best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out.
Pests and Diseases
Common Pests
Elder shoot borer
The larva is yellowish-white with a double row of black dots across each body segment and a black head. It feeds inside the stem and may cause substantial dieback and loss of canes. Cut out infected and dead canes in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs. The adult is a moth with rust‑red forewings mottled with grey and yellowish‑grey hind wings.
Sap beetle
Adult beetles are 5 mm in length, black with four yellow spots on the elytra. The beetles become a problem when fruit is damaged or overmature, as they are attracted by fermenting sugars. Sap beetle larvae can also be a problem. As the blooms form, larvae will tunnel into the base of the bloom and feed in the centre of the flower cluster.
Eriophyid mites
These tiny mites, visible only under a microscope, attack the leaves and cause the edges to roll and yellow bands to appear. They can be controlled by dormant sprays, but their damage is normally not serious.
Other insects
The adult beetles of the elder borer are present during June and July and cause notches on elderberry leaves. Two-spotted spider mites also affect the elderberry and can reduce the crop by 75% when the numbers are high. Additional problem insects include aphids, potato flea beetles, grape mealybugs, thrips, San Jose scale, currant borer and rose chafer.
Common Diseases
Tomato ringspot virus
Tomato ringspot virus is among the most serious diseases affecting elderberries. It is spread by nematodes and through pollen transfer. Dandelions and some other weeds can also carry this virus. It results in weakened plants, reduced productivity and, eventually, plant death. To control the virus, test the soil for nematodes prior to planting, and avoid planting where nematodes are present. Eradicate any wild elderberry plants within an area of 31 m surrounding cultivated plants.
Stem and twig cankers
Stem and twig cankers are among the fungus diseases that can be controlled by pruning and burning of infected canes. Powdery mildew can affect canes and berries in late summer and early fall. It results in a gray appearance on the berries but does not lower the quality of the juice. Removing infected shoots and leaves, and pruning to open up the canopy and improve air movement will help manage powdery mildew.
Other diseases
Leaf-spotting fungi, thread blight, root rots and verticillium wilt are among the less common diseases. It is important to choose a well-drained site to avoid root diseases.
To protect Ontarians from unnecessary risk, Ontario bans the cosmetic use of pesticides by only allowing certain, low-risk pesticides for controlling weeds and pests in gardens. Pesticides can only be used for cosmetic purposes if the use is permitted under an exception to the ban, or the active ingredient in the pesticide is included on the allowable list.
III. Uses and Benefits
- Ornamental uses
American elder is often used in naturalized, informal, or woodland settings, where its rambling habit can be fully enjoyed. It can work as a looser, sprawling hedge, and also looks attractive in low spots in the garden such as around ponds where it fills in space with foliage and flowers. Ornamental onion and Sage both provide beautiful color contrasts with this plant.
- Culinary uses
The flower, known as elderflower, is edible, as are the ripe berries. A drink can be made from soaking the flower heads in water for eight hours. Other uses for the fruit include wine, jelly and dye. The leaves and inner bark can be used as an insecticide and a dye. The leaves are also traditionally used topically in herbalism.
The genus name comes from the Greek word sambuce, an ancient wind instrument, in reference to the removal of pith from the twigs of this and other species to make whistles.
- Medicinal uses
The boiled inner bark of the elderberry was used by the Iroquois of North America as a pain-reliever in tooth-aches, being applied to the side of the cheek that was most virulent.
IV. Harvesting and Storage
Elderberry fruits normally mature between mid‑August and mid-September. Clusters ripen over a period of 5–15 days and are easy to harvest. Do not hold fruit in containers at room temperature for more than 2–4 hours, as internal heating reduces quality and causes rapid spoilage. Yields of 5.5–6.8 kg of fruit can be expected per plant in 3–4 years if managed properly.
