When many people think of orchids, they probably picture a flower from the Cattleya (pronounced kat-lee-uh) genus. Cattleya orchids typically feature showy, fragrant flowers that come in a wide variety of shapes, colors, and color combinations. Many of the species sport quite large blooms that stretch several inches across while others have smaller but no less beautiful blooms. Cattleya orchids usually only flower once a year with the timeframe varying by species, though some hybrids, especially those crossed with Laelia orchids, have been cultivated to bloom more than once.
I. Appearance and CharacteristicsÂ
Cattleya is a genus of orchids from Costa Rica south to Argentina. The genus is abbreviated C in trade journals.
The genus was named in 1824 by John Lindley after horticulturalist William Cattley. Cattley obtained a specimen of then unnamed Cattleya labiata from William Swainson who had discovered the new plant in Pernambuco, Brazil, in 1817. The plant successfully bloomed under the care of Cattley and it became the type specimen from which Lindley described C. labiata.
Epiphytic or terrestrial orchids with cylindrical rhizome from which the fleshy noodle-like roots grow. Pseudobulbs can be conical, spindle-shaped or cylindrical; with upright growth; one or two leaves growing from the top of them. The leaves can be oblong, lanceolate or elliptical, somewhat fleshy, with smooth margin. The inflorescence is a terminal raceme with few or several flowers. Flowers have sepals and petals free from each other; the lip or labellum (lowermost petal), usually has a different coloration and shape from the rest of the flower and covers in part the flower column forming a tube. There are four pollinia (bag-like organs that contain pollen). The fruit is a capsule with many small seeds.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Your Cattleya need bright light for optimal growth but not too much sun as it can scorch the leaf tips.
If you grow it as a houseplant, the best place is an east-facing window, or you can place them in west-facing windows. Still, it is best to diffuse the light using a sheer curtain for orchid pots to create indirect sunlight.
When growing orchids outdoors, please provide indirect light in the afternoon. Still, the Cattleya plant must not get too little light as it might not flower those beautiful blooms.
On the other hand, when in a growing environment with too much light, the dark green leaves will become black or brown.
Temperature and Humidity
Cattleya orchids prefer daytime temperatures between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit and nighttime temperatures between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Colder temperatures and frost can kill a plant. The orchids can tolerate temperatures up to around 95 degrees Fahrenheit, though it’s important that they have good air circulation and high humidity in such heat. In general, they like a humidity level around 40 to 70 percent. Many growers raise humidity around their plants by placing the orchid’s container on a tray filled with pebbles and water. The foliage also can be misted in the mornings. Some growers also place a humidifier in the room with the orchid. Plus, these orchids are excellent to grow in greenhouse environments.
Watering
These orchids require a moderate amount of moisture. Water whenever the growing medium is fairly dried out; typically a weekly watering is sufficient. Do not let the orchids sit in a consistently wet growing medium, which can cause root rot. At each watering, water deeply so that the water sprays the foliage and runs through the container drainage holes. Many growers prefer to sit the orchid container in a sink to do this. It’s best to water in the mornings, so the foliage has time to dry in the light. Otherwise, lingering dampness can cause mildew and other diseases.
Soil
Cattleya orchids will thrive in a commercial growing mix made specifically for orchids. This usually includes fir or sequoia bark and potentially perlite, horticultural charcoal, coconut husk chips, tree fern fiber, clay pellets, gravel, and more. When grown outdoors cattleya orchids can be slab-mounted, a technique in which the orchid is manually attached to a tree host. To mount the orchid, wrap the roots in moss; wire the plant on top of a shelf (made of organic materials, such as driftwood or cork bark); and attach it to a branch, tree trunk, or log.
Fertilizing
Some orchids have been known to grow and even bloom for years without fertilizer. But minimal yet consistent feeding will give your plant the nutrients it needs to thrive. Many growers recommend using a balanced orchid fertilizer at a quarter strength weekly at each watering. Too much fertilizer can cause the plant to focus on foliage growth and send up stalks that don’t produce flowers. Excess fertilizer also can damage the orchid’s roots.
How to Get to Bloom
Giving your plant sufficient lighting is the best way to get a cattleya orchid to bloom. Cattleya orchids that aren’t getting enough light will have darker than normal foliage, and they often won’t flower. If your orchid has at least one light green leaf, chances are it will flower because it’s getting enough light. Consider a grow light for the orchid, which could persuade it to bloom. Artificial lighting is easier to regulate so you can consistently give the plant the correct amount of lighting for it to thrive.
Potting and RepottingÂ
These plants don’t like their roots disturbed, so repot only when it’s essential. Once the roots are growing over the edge of the pot and/or the growing medium has decomposed (which causes poor drainage), it’s time to repot. This typically will occur every two years. Choose a slightly larger container with adequate drainage holes. Then, carefully loosen the roots from the old container, and shake off as much decomposed growing medium as possible. Place the orchid in the new container at the same depth it was previously growing, and pack fresh orchid potting mix around the roots.
Pests and Diseases
Common Pests
Pests seem to love this type of orchid. Watch for common houseplant pests that can cause foliage damage, especially scale. Catching and eliminating scale is important because this pest sucks the sap from various parts of the plant and can seriously damage cattleya orchids. There are many ways to get rid of scale, including the use of rubbing alcohol or neem oil. Thrips (spray with water) and spider mites (water or neem oil kills them) can also damage, but likely not kill, this orchid. You may find mealybugs around buds making a cottony white mess but you can wash them away with water, among other methods.
Common ProblemsÂ
Though it’s an easy orchid to grow, things can go awry. Look for the following signs of problems with your cattleya orchid.
Wrinkled Pseudobulb
Not every orchid has a pseudobulb like the cattleya orchid to help it survive periods of drought. But keep an eye on the pseudobulb (the swollen storage organ on the stem), which can give you clues about your plant’s health. A plump pseudobulb indicates a happy, well-hydrated plant but a wrinkled one indicates severe dehydration. Scale bugs also hide under the papery covering of the pseudobulb so be sure to investigate. Remove bugs using a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or some rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle to attack the scale problem.
Discolored Pseudobulb
If you see the color of the pseudobulb has turned creamy or blackened, the plant is suffering from a water mold problem and is rotting from the roots up. Cut away the discolored portions and treat the wound with hydrogen peroxide.
Brown Spots on Leaves
Large brown spots on leaves may look ugly but this bacterial issue isn’t much to worry about. Simply remove infected leaves and other areas so the bacteria doesn’t spread.
Dead Leaf Tips
If you see more than just brown spots, but the entire tip of a leaf is brown and dead, the plant may have anthracnose, a fungal disease. Remove the damaged areas so the fungus does not spread.
Yellow Spots on Leaves
An infestation of scale may reveal itself as yellow, chlorotic spots on the upper surface of the leaves. Use rubbing alcohol to eliminate the pests. If the yellow spots are large and stippled, spider mites may be sucking the juices out of the leaves.
III. Cattleya Orchid Varieties
There are many orchid species and hybrids within the Cattleya genus that vary in appearance and bloom time, including:
- Cattleya labiata: Known commonly as the crimson cattleya or ruby-lipped orchid, this species is medium in size and produces big, showy blooms often in shades of pink, lilac, or white.
- Cattleya iricolor: This species is notable for its very fragrant flowers in pale yellow or creamy white that have long, narrow petals.
- Cattleya mossiae: This species is known as the Easter orchid because it’s usually in bloom around Easter time.
- Cattleya percivaliana: This species is commonly called the Christmas orchid because it blooms in fall and winter often in a pale lavender color.
Cattleya schroederae: This is another species that has the common name of Easter orchid for its spring blooms; its showy flowers are up to 9 inches across.
