Have you enjoyed yourcitronella plant outdoors and wondered if you can have citronella as a houseplant? The good news is that you certainly can grow this plant indoors. Keep reading and keep mosquitoes away with the Citronella plant!
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Citronella plant (Pelargonium citronellum) is a natural mosquito repellent. These mosquito repelling plants can make your outdoor living experience much better without exposing yourself to harsh chemicals like deet! This pretty plant keeps mosquitoes away and looks nice on your patio or deck in a pot. It has a lovely citrusy aroma and is even deer resistant. This plant can be treated as a patio plant or an annual in cooler areas. It is an evergreen in tropical growing zones 9, 10, and 11. The Mosquito plant can also repel insects indoors as a houseplant.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Pelargonium citronellum like sufficient sunlight and grow and bloom normally in good sunlight conditions. However, the plants can’t stand excessive sunlight. In early spring, pelargonium citronellum can be placed in warm and bright places. In summer, the plants basically stop growing, so direct sunlight should be avoided. At this time. plants can be moved to the inside of a balcony with filtered light, or transferred to the shade of trees.
Temperature
Pelargonium citronellum are native to the Cape of Good Hope in South Africa, so they like mild and cool climates. The suitable temperature range for growth is 5 to 25 ℃, and the optimum temperature is 15 to 20 ℃. The relative air humidity should be no higher than 75%, and excessive temperatures and humidity should be avoided.
Watering
Pelargonium citronellum thrives in conditions that mimic its native semi-arid habitats, requiring minimal moisture and exhibiting high drought tolerance. Watering every week is sufficient to keep pelargonium citronellum healthy without risking overhydration. As an outdoor plant, pelargonium citronellum particularly benefits from well-draining soil to prevent root rot during rainy seasons.
Soil
Pelargonium citronellum need a weakly acidic, loose, fertile, permeable, sandy culture soil that contains humus. It’s usually cultivated with 75% peat + 25% vermiculite, or 75% peat + 25% perlite, or 50% Canadian peat + 25% vermiculite + 25% perlite mixed soil. After mixing several culture media, disinfect the soil and then add an appropriate amount of decomposed organic fertilizer and Calcium superphosphate. The pH value should be kept at about 6.0. The soil should be moist and slightly dry, and water accumulation should be avoided.
Fertilizing
A complex fertilizer containing phosphorus can be used before and after blooming. The fertilizer amount depends on the flowerpot size. For example, 5-10 g of fertilizer for a flowerpot with a diameter of 20 cm is appropriate. Apply fertilizer to pelargonium citronellum once before blooming and supply a proper amount of fertilizer after flowers wither. Liquid fertilizer can be directly irrigated, while granular fertilizer can be buried at the flowerpot edge and appropriately distanced from the plant. Slow-release fertilizer can also be applied. Observe the growth for 6-9 months after fertilization.
When pelargonium citronellum show signs of malnutrition (less flowers, yellowing of small leaves, slower growth, etc.), it means that the soil nutrients are running out. Supplement with fertilizer, and the plant will slowly recover 3-4 weeks after fertilization.
Planting Instructions
It’s best to repot pelargonium citronellum or plant them in early spring. Use flowerpots with a diameter of 10 to 13 cm and apply the mixed culture medium mentioned above for cultivation.
At the same time, prune the plant before potting or planting, and leave only 3 lateral buds at the base of each branch. Then, prune any rotted roots. Take the plant out of the flowerpot, add or replace the culture soil, and apply fertilizer. Remember to water the soil to keep it moist and prevent the seedling from withering. Apply a thin, organic, liquid fertilizer once a week for 1 month after the plant grows new branches.
Pruning
After fall, depending on the growth of pelargonium citronellum, keep just 3-5 strong main branches that are close to the base and evenly distributed. Cut the remaining slender and weak branches directly from the base. Only strong lateral buds should be left on the branches, and the rest should be cut off. About five days after pruning, new, neat branches will germinate and produce flowers later.
Propagation
Pelargonium citronellum is easily propagated by sowing. Starting from seed, gardeners should use well-draining soil mix and ensure consistent moisture without waterlogging. The seeds require light for germination, so they should be surface-sown and not covered with soil. A warm environment will assist in successful germination and growth. Once seedlings develop true leaves, they can be gently transplanted into individual pots. Care should be taken to avoid disturbing the roots to ensure a smooth transition.
Transplanting
For pelargonium citronellum, the optimal transplant timing is from the awakening of spring until the cusp of summer warmth, providing a gentle climate for root establishment. Choose a sun-kissed, well-draining spot and enrich the soil to welcome pelargonium citronellum’s new beginning.
III. Harvesting and Storage
Pelargonium citronellum are self-pollinating plants. After their petals fall, there will be a 3 cm long, green, needle-shaped pod with a few seeds in the middle of the calyx. The mature seeds are dark brown and have white hairs, and can be harvested for preservation.
The bloom time of pelargonium citronellum is relatively long. Fresh flowers can be cut at the scape base with sharp gardening scissors in the evening. Cut the base at a 45° angle to increase the water absorption area, and cut off excessive leaves to reduce water evaporation. Quickly put flowers in a vase with clean water to prevent water loss.
