The zebra plant is a stunning little succulent native to South Africa. It is very similar to Haworthiopsis attenuata, but rarer in cultivation. Because of this, H. attenuata plants are often mislabeled as zebra plant. You can easily differentiate the two by looking at the leaves – if they have a smooth upper surface, then it’s a zebra plant.
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Haworthiopsis fasciata, formerly Haworthia fasciata, is a species of succulent plant from the Eastern Cape Province, South Africa. The species is rare in cultivation; most plants that are labelled as H. fasciata are actually Haworthiopsis attenuata.
The plants are generally small, less than 10 cm (4 in) high. The triangular shaped leaves are green with narrow white crested strips on the outside. At the end of the leaf is a non acute spine. The summer flowers appear in October and November, on the end of an inflorescence.
The species has similar markings to Haworthiopsis attenuata, which is commonly grown as a house plant. The two are therefore frequently confused with each other, and a great many H. attenuata specimens are mislabelled as the rarer H. fasciata.
However Haworthiopsis fasciata is rare in cultivation, and can easily be distinguished by the smooth upper (ie. inner) surfaces of its leaves. Its white tubercles occur only on the lower (outer) sides of its leaves; whereas H. attenuata has roughness or tubercles on both sides of its leaves. The leaves of H. fasciata are also often stouter and more deltoid. They tend to curve inwards more. Unlike H. attenuata, older H. fasciata specimens also sometimes develop long columnal stems.
The most fundamental distinction, though not externally obvious, is that Haworthiopsis fasciata has fibrous leaves – unlike H. attenuata, but similar to H. glauca, H. coarctata, H. reinwardtii and H. longiana.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sun and Temperature
Like most succulents, Haworthiopsis fasciata likes lots of bright, indirect sunlight. It’ll thrive in a south-facing window that gets at least 6 hours of direct light a day. However, little zebra plants also appreciate some light shade in the heat of the afternoon. The leaves may change color in bright, direct sunlight. This is technically a sign of stress but does little to harm the plant. In fact, many gardeners expose their succulents to too much sun in order to bring out the coloring.
As a desert plant, zebra cactus is not cold-hardy. The lowest temperature it can handle is around 30°F, but frost damage can happen at 45°F. Conversely, Haworthiopsis fasciata succulents handle heat well but need some protective shade in temperatures over 85°F.
Water and Humidity
If you’ve grown succulents, you know the drill with watering. We’re following the “soak and dry” technique. First, soak your succulent’s potting soil by watering it thoroughly. Then, wait until the soil has completely dried out, wait a few more days, and then soak it again. Depending on the temperature, you may only be watering every 2-4 weeks. If you’re in doubt about whether your succulent needs water, don’t water it.
Like most plants, little zebra likes to be dry above ground. Too much humidity is an invitation to leaf rot and fungal growth. So, be sure to place your succulent somewhere with good air circulation and low humidity.
Soil
Since they naturally grow in acidic sands, Zebra plants require a well-draining soil mix. Ideally, you should use a premade succulent and cactus mix, which usually has the perfect amount of drainage. You can also mix your own, adding sand, perlite, or vermiculite to regular potting mix.
Water should seep through the mix somewhat quickly and not pool on the surface. You can use an alternative growing medium, like coconut coir, but you’ll have to wait longer between waterings. Remember that while the growing medium needs to hold some moisture, it also needs to be dry for short periods of time.
H. fasciata plants prefer a neutral or slightly acidic soil pH (6.6 is perfect). They should manage just fine in poor soils as long as they get a good dose of fertilizer every now and then. You should also ensure that the container you use has excellent drainage holes.
Fertilizing
For optimal growth, feed your Haworthiopsis fasicata zebra plant with a balanced liquid fertilizer every 2-3 months during the summer. Don’t worry about feeding it in the winter, as zebra plants’ growth will naturally slow down when the temperatures drop.
Pruning
Since it grows in neatly-packed rosettes, the Haworthiopsis fasciata zebra plant isn’t usually pruned. The only times you should prune it is if the leaves are diseased or dying. The older leaves at the bottom of the rosette will naturally die off. You can remove them by simply plucking them off the stem. The same can be done for diseased leaves.
Propagation
Haworthiopsis fasciata is propagated just like most other succulents: leaf cuttings or offsets. Offsets are the easiest method, so we’ll start with them.
As mentioned earlier, a mature Haworthiopsis will produce baby plants called offsets or pups. These babies are attached to the mother plant, receiving nutrients while they grow their own roots. When the roots are visible, you can speed up the process by cutting the offsets from the mother plant and replanting them in their own small pots.
Leaf cuttings take longer to produce new plants, but they’re fascinating to watch! Start by removing an entire leaf from a mature plant. The leaf must be healthy and at least an inch long. Place the leaf somewhere dry for a few days so the cut end can call us over. To kick start its growth, you can dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Then, set it on top of some well-draining soil and mist it with water.
Keep the surface continually moist and you’ll soon see tiny roots sprouting from the callused end. In time, a miniature rosette will grow from the cutting. As it turns into a mature plant, the original leaf will die and fall off.
Pests and Diseases
Common Pests
Mealybugs are a pain to Haworthiopsis fasciata, Haworthiopsis attenuata (aka, Haworthia attenuata or Haworthiopsis attenuate), and any other similar succulent species. These pests suck out the plant’s juices, leaving it discolored and withered. If not properly dealt with, mealybugs can kill your succulent zebra plant and spread to its neighboring plants. They also secrete a honeydew that attracts ants.
You can handle mealybugs with insecticidal soap or a mycoinsecticide. If you have a lot of succulents outdoors, you may want to stock ladybugs or lacewings in your garden. They’ll take care of the mealybugs and most other succulent pests.
If you thought mealybugs were gross, take a look at spider mites. These tiny, imitation spiders also feed on leaf juice but leave behind ultra-fine webs. You can treat them with horticultural oils or insecticidal soap as well as the predatory insects mentioned. To prevent spider mite and mealybug infestations, keep the leaves and soil surface clear from debris and remove dead plant matter.
Common Diseases
Thanks to their fleshy roots, succulents are very susceptible to root rot. Root rot starts with too much moisture in the soil, usually from overwatering. The roots get waterlogged and become vulnerable to mold, oomycetes, and fungi lying in wait in the soil. You may be encountering Fusarium, Pythium, or Phytophthora species, among others. Prevent any sort of rot by avoiding excess water and keeping the soil well-drained.
You can try to combat such diseases with a good fungicide, though you may end up just removing the diseased portions. If you do manage to salvage some of the plant, transplant it into new soil with better drainage and watch it closely for more symptoms. Destroy any diseased plant matter, and do not compost it.
Growing Problems
If they don’t get enough sunlight, succulents can become etiolated (stretched out). When this happens to Haworthiopsis fasciata plants, they appear tall and skinny instead of short and spiky. Unfortunately, once a fasciata plant is etiolated, it can’t shrink back down. But, it’s very easy to “perform surgery” on your succulents.
Using a sharp, clean knife, cut off the stem an inch below where the leaves begin to space out. Remove all the leaves from that bottom inch, leaving you with a spiky rosette on a stem. Give the cutting a few days to dry out, and then stick it upright into some well-draining potting mix. The stem will grow roots from where the leaves were removed, reestablishing a short, compact succulent.
If your zebra fasciata plant starts to get brown and crispy at the tips, it’s likely too hot and underwatered. Give it a good watering and place it in some light shade during the hottest part of the day. If caught early enough, the damage may be reversible.
On the flip side of things, overwatering succulents quickly turns them mushy. If left untreated, the roots, stem, and leaves will begin to rot. If you see this happening, immediately stop watering until the plant recovers. You should also check that the growing medium is draining well and transplant into a better mix if needed.
III. Uses and Benefits
- Ornamental uses
Zebra plant is an ornamental used in xeriscaping and rockeries for its unusual aesthetic; the white stripes upon the succulent’s pointed leaves give it a zebra–like appearance. This is often used as an indoor plant in cooler climates.
- Other uses
Haworthia plants make excellent additions to desert dish-gardens.
Display these window sill succulents in small pots. It is another way to appreciate the beautiful foliage of this extraordinary plant.
Haworthias are non-toxic, making them excellent starter plants for kids.
