Freesia (Freesias, Baboon Flower)

A genus of largely tropical flowering plants, freesia include both the original wildflowers and the various domesticated cultivars and hybrids created from certain species. They are generally fragrant and many bear trumpet flowers. An oil derived from the flowers of several species are used in perfumes and scented toiletries.

I. Appearance and Characteristics

Freesia is a genus of herbaceous perennial flowering plants in the family Iridaceae, first described as a genus in 1866 by Christian Friedrich Ecklon (1886) and named after the German botanist and medical practitioner, Friedrich Freese (1795–1876). It is native to the eastern side of southern Africa, from Kenya south to South Africa, most species being found in Cape Provinces. Species of the former genus Anomatheca are now included in Freesia. The plants commonly known as “freesias”, with fragrant funnel-shaped flowers, are cultivated hybrids of a number of Freesia species. Some other species are also grown as ornamental plants.

They are herbaceous plants which grow from a conical corm 1–2.5 cm (1⁄2–1 in) diameter, which sends up a tuft of narrow leaves 10–30 cm (4–12 in) long, and a sparsely branched stem 10–40 cm (4–16 in) tall bearing a few leaves and a loose one-sided spike of flowers with six petals. Many species have fragrant narrowly funnel-shaped flowers, although those formerly placed in the genus Anomatheca, such as F. laxa, have flat flowers.

Freesias are used as food plants by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species including the large yellow underwing.

The plants usually called “freesias” in horticulture and floristry are derived from crosses made in the 19th century between Freesia refracta and Freesia leichtlinii. Numerous cultivars have been bred from these species and the pink- and yellow-flowered forms of Freesia corymbosa. Modern tetraploid cultivars have flowers ranging from white to yellow, pink, red and blue-mauve. They are mostly cultivated professionally in the Netherlands by about 80 growers. Freesias can be readily increased from seed. Due to their specific and pleasing scent, they are often used in hand creams, shampoos, candles, etc.; however, the flowers themselves are mainly used in wedding bouquets.

Freesia laxa (formerly called Lapeirousia laxa or Anomatheca cruenta) is one of the other species of the genus which is commonly cultivated. Smaller than the scented freesia cultivars, it has flat rather than cup-shaped flowers.

Freesia (Freesias, Baboon Flower)

II. How to Grow and Care

Sunlight

Freesias grow best in full sun. However, they can tolerate a planting location with some morning shade. If you’re growing them indoors, a sunny window that faces south is ideal.

Temperature and Humidity

Freesias are not cold-hardy flowers; outside their hardiness zone, they can be planted in early spring as annuals. However, the plants need nighttime temperatures around 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit to form buds. Furthermore, freesias prefer about 40 to 50% humidity, which might be challenging to provide in dry climates. If you don’t have access to a cool greenhouse, moving freesias in containers into an unheated garage or shed each night might be necessary to promote flowers.

Watering

Keep the soil moist but not soggy as new sprouts are growing. Then, water your plants around once a week when they’re flowering. Reduce watering to allow the soil to dry out if the foliage turns yellow and begins to wilt.

Soil

Well-draining soil is vital for freesia plants. You can amend the soil with organic material, such as peat moss or compost, to improve drainage. Most regular potting mixes will do if you’re planting in a container.

Fertilizing

Once the first sprouts emerge from the soil, apply a balanced flower fertilizer, and keep the plants in full sun. Fertilize them again when buds appear. For the amount to use, follow product label instructions.

Planting Instructions

In zones 9 and 10, plant freesia corms in the fall and you can count on freesia to unfurl its colorful racemes of flowers in spring. In cooler zones, plant corms after the last frost in spring and they will bloom in late summer or early fall.

Plant the corms with their pointed ends up, 1 to 2 inches deep and no more than 2 inches apart.

In zones 3 to 8, the tender corms won’t survive the winter, so you need to dig up them up after they have bloomed and the foliage has shriveled up but before the first frost. Store them in sand or coconut coir in a cool, dry place, at around 55 degrees F until you are ready to replant them in the spring.

Pruning

Freesia does not require pruning but after they bloom, it is crucial to let the narrow, bladelike leaves turn yellow, wilt, and shrivel completely before removing them. It is during that stage that the plant forms new bulblets.

Propagation

It is best to plant Freesia corms in the fall if growing them in their native zone, USDA 9 or 10. But, if planting this frost-sensitive plant in cooler zones, plant it in the spring after the last frost.

Dig up the dormant corms after the foliage fades to protect freesia corms from freezing temperatures. You’ll notice small corms forming as offsets from the parent corm. Here’s how to propagate freesia from corms:

  • Gently remove baby corms from the parent.
  • Plant them separately as you would mature corms, about 2 to 3 inches apart and 1 to 2 inches deep.
  • Water well.
  • Shoots should appear within four weeks. But flowering might not start until one to two seasons after planting new corm offsets.

Potting and Repotting

Freesias also thrive in pots, indoors and out. Freesia plants do best as individual container specimens because of their specific growing requirements. Select a container with ample drainage holes, and fill it with a well-draining potting mix. Plant your corms around 1 to 2 inches deep, at least an inch apart, with the pointed end up. Water the soil well, and set the container where it will receive full sun outside. Indoors, place the pot where it will get bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist (but not soaking wet), and expect flowers in about 12 weeks. Indoor potted freesia will typically bloom in winter.

Overwintering

Once active growing is over, allow the foliage to yellow and wilt. To preserve freesia plants in the ground in frosty zones, dig up the corms before the frost. Dry them and keep them in a warm space (77 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit). Keep them separated, such as wrapped in newspaper. Replant them in the spring after the threat of frost is gone.

How to Get to Bloom

These flowers resemble delicate trumpets with a sweet-smelling fruity scent, growing in various colors. If your freesia makes thick foliage, but no flowers form, you might have too many corms below ground competing for resources. Dig up the corms and separate them. Also, do not plant them too deep. Corms planted too deep may not form flowers.

If your foliage is outdoing your flower production, you might be using the wrong fertilizer. Nitrogen-heavy fertilizers focus plant production on leaves instead of flowers. To encourage blooms, give your freesia a phosphorus-rich feed in spring and continue to provide your freesia plants fertilizer every two months during the growing season.

Freesia usually does not flower from new corm offsets in the first season (can take two to three seasons) but are reliable bloomers from mature corms appropriately stored over winter or wintered in-ground in zones 9 or 10.

This plant requires cool nighttime temperatures (40 to 55 F) and daytime temperatures between 50 to 70 F. Freesia will not bloom in zones with year-round heat; it must have cool nighttime temperatures to form flowers.

Pests and Diseases

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Freesia is pretty hardy, but occasionally it will attract aphids, slugs, and snails. For aphids, you can use insecticidal soap daily and wipe away dead bugs with a clean cloth. Slugs and snails should be removed by hand; then, you can leave slug or snail bait. A simple bait is a little dish with beer, which attracts them. They’ll drown in the liquid.

Common Problems

Freesias are hardy and easy to grow; however, they can sometimes have a few issues.

Yellowing Leaves

If leaves and flowers get twisty or turn yellow prematurely, check the plant for sap-sucking aphids, which can remove energy from the plant. Use a steady stream of water, insecticidal soap, or horticultural oil to eliminate the soft-bodied insects. It can also be a sign of fusarium wilt. Fusarium is an incurable fungus, and all infected plants must be destroyed.

Dark Spots

Your plant may have bacterial soft rot if you notice black, gray, or brown spots on the leaves, flowers, and stem. It begins as small spots that grow and dry out or worsen by turning a large part of the plant brown. If most of the plant is infected, pull and dispose of it to prevent its spread. Reduce watering if your plant has a minor infection; if all other conditions are ideal, it may be able to recover on its own.

Yellow or Green Lesions

Small yellowish-greenish watery lesions can indicate iris leaf spot, which can worsen to prominent locations on the flowers. This fungal condition usually means waterlogged soil. This plant needs well-draining soil. To control its spread, remove all plant material with spots to stop the fungus spores from infecting other plants.

III. Freesia Companion Plants

A unique cutting flower, freesia is not commonly grown in the home garden and commands high prices at the florist. But growing your own freesia lets you enjoy all the beauty of florist shop bouquet right from your own backyard. Plant the elements of a charming garden bouquet by pairing freesia with dahlias, gladiolus, lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis), larkspur, cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus), amaranth, and pincushion flower (scabiosa). When creating a cutting garden, don’t hesitate to plant in rows for easy care and harvesting all season long. Add structure to the planting bed by surrounding it with a low fence.

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