Grape hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum) is often the first bulb-type flower to show its blossoms in your garden in spring. The flowers look like clusters of little pearls, blue and white. They usually carry a mild fragrance. When the grape hyacinth blooming season comes to an end, you need to care for the bulbs to protect and preserve them so that they can bloom again the following year. Read on for information about Muscari care after blooming.
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Muscari armeniacum is a species of flowering plant in the squill subfamily Scilloideae of the asparagus family Asparagaceae (formerly the lilies, Liliaceae). It is a bulbous perennial with basal, simple leaves and short flowering stems. It is one of a number of species and genera known as grape hyacinth, in this case Armenian grape hyacinth or garden grape-hyacinth. The flowers are purple, blue (with a white fringe), white (cv. ‘Album’) or pale pink (cv. ‘Pink Sunrise’) and the plants are usually 15 centimetres (6 in) tall.
M. armeniacum blooms in mid-Spring (April or May in the Northern Hemisphere) for 3–4 weeks. Some selections are fragrant. Established bulbs leaf in the autumn. M. armeniacum is widespread in the woods and meadows of the Eastern Mediterranean, from Greece and Turkey to the Caucasus, including Armenia which gives it its name.
Muscari armeniacum is one of the most commonly cultivated species of Muscari, is robust and naturalises easily. It appeared in European gardens in 1871.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Grape hyacinth does best in full sun but tolerates partial shade. Keep in mind that many sites that are shady throughout the summer are actually quite sunny in the spring before nearby trees have leafed out. These are ideal areas for planting grape hyacinths, as well as many other spring bulbs.
Temperature and Humidity
Grape hyacinths do nicely in all climate conditions within their USDA hardiness zone range. However, they do require a cool winter period in order to bloom, so unseasonably warm winter temperatures may cause bloom failure the following spring. When grown within its USDA hardiness zone range, grape hyacinth does not require any extra care over the winter.
Watering
Grape hyacinths like a fair amount of moisture during the spring, but their soil should be allowed to dry out a bit as the season progresses. This helps to prevent bulb rot issues throughout the months that they’re not in bloom. Grape hyacinths typically need water about once per week, depending on how recently it has rained.
Soil
For the best results, plant grape hyacinth in any well-drained soil around your property. Grape hyacinths are most fond of somewhat sandy soil, but they do well in all but the soggiest blends. Additionally, grape hyacinth is not at all picky about soil’s pH level.
Fertilizing
No fertilizer is necessary for healthy grape hyacinth plants, but they may benefit from sprinkling 1/4 cup of bone meal (per 100 square feet of soil) once per year in the fall.
Pruning
Grape hyacinth does not need to be pruned, but gardeners may cut back small sections of its foliage to make it more attractive during the growing season. However, the grassy foliage that develops after the plant’s summer dormant season should be left intact throughout the fall and winter to aid blooming in the spring. Removing the green seed pods after spring flowering helps the plant produce more flowers the following year.
Propagation
Grape hyacinth can be propagated via seeds from its pods or via division of the bulbs. Because this species spreads easily, most gardeners do not need to propagate it, but these methods can be used to grow new plants in other areas or to fill out a garden bed. Propagating grape hyacinth from seed can take years before the plant flowers, so division is most commonly preferred. Division can be done in the fall, while propagation via seeds is best accomplished in the spring.
How to Propagate Grape Hyacinth From Seed
- In the spring after the plant has finished blooming, locate the circular green seed pods that develop.
- Remove the pods from the plant and separate the seeds on a damp paper towel.
- Place the paper towel in a clean plastic bag or container that is slightly open to allow for air circulation.
- Keep the bag or container in the refrigerator until the seeds sprout (this may take up to three months).
- After they sprout, plant the seeds outdoors or indoors in rows on top of fresh soil with a small layer of soil on top.
- Mist the seeds when the soil dries out.
- Once the plants sprout up out of the soil, care for them as usual.
How to Propagate Grape Hyacinth by Division
- Dig up the bulbs from healthy plants and remove them from the soil. If your grape hyacinth is growing in clusters, only divide the largest bulbs.
- Gently pull the plants apart to separate them.
- Dig new holes for the bulbs slightly larger than the size of the bulb.
- Plant the bulbs in containers or directly in the garden, pointing the flat side of the bulb down into the soil hole.
- Add a mixture of compost into the soil, then fertilize with standard bulb fertilizer or bone meal.
- Water the plants thoroughly and care for them as usual.
How to Grow from Bulbs
Like most spring-flowering bulbs, fall is the best planting time for grape hyacinth. Choose a site with average soil that drains well; grape hyacinth bulbs will rot if planted in a site that remains wet. Here’s how to grow grape hyacinth from bulbs:
- Start with a grouping of at least 25 bulbs for a small garden. In an average-sized suburban garden, plant drifts of at least 100 in the flower garden or scattered beneath trees and shrubs.
- Space the bulbs approximately 3 inches apart and 3 inches deep. You can take out a spade full of soil and plant a handful of bulbs all at a time, making it possible to install a large drift in under an hour.
- Water the bulbs thoroughly when first planted, then only water when the soil dries out. Continue caring for the bulbs with regular waterings until they emerge from the soil in spring.
Potting and Repotting
Grape hyacinth can be grown in containers either indoors or outdoors. This species does not grow well in soggy soil, so choosing the right pot is key. A clay pot with large drainage holes on the bottom allows excess water to escape through the pot walls and bottom.
Because grape hyacinth spreads easily, the plant may outgrow its pot during the growing season. Repot your grape hyacinth by removing the cluster of bulbs, separating them, and potting them with fresh soil in new containers.
Pests and Diseases
Common Pests and Diseases
Grape hyacinth may have to contend with a variety of pests and diseases, some more serious than others. Common culprits like aphids and spider mites are typical, though they’ll rarely become prominent enough to be considered an infestation. If you notice these pests on your plants, you can try loosening them from the plant using a strong spray of water from a garden hose.
More serious are bouts of yellow mosaic virus, which is often characterized by a green pattern on the leaves, shortened stalk, or trouble growing. These diseases are typically spread by spider mites that infect the bulb, which is why they should be taken care of immediately if spotted on the plant. Unfortunately, yellow mosaic likely means the infected bulb won’t survive, and any afflicted plants should be dug up and burned so the infection doesn’t spread.
Common Problems
Grape hyacinth does not typically experience many growing problems, as these low-maintenance plants sprout up in the spring with flowers on their own. However, improper sunlight and watering may prevent the plants from growing healthy.
Drooping Leaves
If your grape hyacinth’s leaves are drooping, the plant is likely not receiving enough light. The area may be too shady, but you can transplant grape hyacinths to a spot in your garden with more light by simply digging the plants up and replanting them elsewhere.
Yellow Leaves
Grape hyacinth leaves may yellow if the plant is overwatered. Allow the plant to dry out, then water when the top inch of soil feels dry.
Leaves Falling Off
It’s perfectly normal for your grape hyacinth’s leaves to die back after the spring flowering season. If the foliage looks unattractive, you can remove it from the plant. When new foliage appears in the fall, be sure to leave it alone until spring to encourage healthy flowers.
III. Uses and Benefits
The grassy grape hyacinth’s foliage makes it a wonderful ground cover or accent plant in rock gardens or wildflower gardens, even in the winter, and its bright blooms make it even more ornamental in the spring. You can plant it in garden beds or borders by itself or alongside other colorful flowering plants, where it can provide an extra pop of color.
IV. What to Do with Muscari Bulbs after Flowering
You may wonder what to do with Muscari bulbs after flowering is over and the plant stems are cut back. Generally, all you have to do is apply a little manure over them in autumn, then a layer of mulch to keep the weeds down. Water them when the weather is dry. In some cases, Muscari care after blooming may include digging up the bulbs.
If the plants show signs of overcrowding that limits their blooming, you can dig them up. Do this very carefully to avoid damaging any of the bulbs. Once you have the bulbs out of the ground, separate them and plant some of them in other parts of the garden.
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