I. Appearance and Characteristics
Cyclamen graecum, the Greek cyclamen, is a perennial plant in the flowering plant family Primulaceae that grows from a tuber. It is native to southern Greece, southern Turkey and neighboring islands and is prized for its variable leaf forms, which include some of the most striking of any cyclamen.
The tuber is corky, with a thick, strong, fleshy anchor, and roots sprouting from the center of the bottom.
The leaves are heart-shaped and toothed.
The flowers bloom in autumn, with five petals which are white or pink with a darker blotch at the nose. They are often fragrant. The bases of the petals are curled outwards into auricles. After pollination, the flower stem coils in both directions, starting from the center, not from the top as in Cyclamen hederifolium.
Greek cyclamen blooms in autumn with pale to deep pink, unscented or only faintly scented flowers with 3 magenta pencil-line streaks at the base of each petal and auricles around the mouth.
Cyclamen graecum ssp. anatolicum is found in Turkey, Rhodes, and Cyprus where it grows in woodland or scrub in sandy and rocky places. It has leaves with beaded and lobed margins, green but often marked with a pale central zone in paler green, pewter or silver. The white to pink sweetly scented flowers have small poorly developed auricles and dark basal solid blotches at the base of each petal that do not usually extend along the veins.
Cyclamen graecum ssp. graecum is found on mainland Greece and some of the Islands where it grows on hilly and mountain slopes in loamy rock pockets or crevices. It has ovate leaves that are green or grey-green and unlobed with the lower surface sometimes flushed pink or purple. The pink flowers with well-developed auricles are mostly unscented and marked with a basal blotch that extends along the veins. Flowers appear above, or before the wonderfully patterned leaves.
Cyclamen graecum ssp. graecum forma album – the white flowered form of Cyclamen graecum can produce in excess of 100 blooms and is a truly arresting sight in full flower. This rare white flowered plant requires a long summer baking in order to perform well and a warm, secluded and sheltered site should be chosen.
Cyclamen graecum ssp. mindleri or Cyclamen graecum ssp. candicum, is from the White Mountains of Western Crete. It has smaller, white to pale pink, broad mouthed flowers with well-marked auricles and a solid blackish purple basal blotch on the lobes that extends along the veins above compact dark, pointed foliage that is often intricately marbled and reddish purple or crimson beneath.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Cyclamen graecum prefers bright, filtered light, but keep it out of direct sunlight, which might scorch the leaves. This plant does not perform well in low light. Near a sunny window is preferred. From late autumn to early spring, provide your plant with as much light as possible. Sunburn is usually not an issue this time of year, although you may want to avoid placing your plant directly in front of a south-facing window.
Temperature
Keep the plant cool at all times, so that its flowers last‐longer. Warmer temperatures will shorten the plant’s life. Do not place on or near any heat source, like a vent, a fireplace or a television set. Daytime temperatures of 65 to 70°F are ideal. They prefer cooler temperatures at night, preferably between 40 and 50°F. It will however tolerate evening temperatures up to 65°F.
Humidity
High humidity, especially during winter, is crucial. Keep the plant on a tray of water with a layer of pebbles or something else to form a shelf for the plant pot to sit on. Do not let the plant itself sit in the water. To prevent disease problems, it is also a good idea to maintain good air movement around the plant.
Watering
Watering incorrectly can cause many problems, especially when too much water has been applied. Always wait until the soil surface feels dry before you water, but don’t wait until the plant becomes limp. Do not water the center of the plant or the tuber may rot. The plants prefers to receive a good soaking, then dry out partially before receiving a good soaking again. Allow the plant to drain over a sink or empty the water collection tray beneath the container after a few minutes. This will help prevent the roots from remaining too wet, which can lead to rotting.
Soil
Its fleshy stems don’t do well in excessively moist soil, so the soil used for cultivation must be loose and well-drained. Culture soil made up of leaf mold and garden soil in the ratio of 2:1 and a little calcium superphosphate can be used. Mixed peat and perlite in a ratio of 2:1 can also be used. No matter what kind of culture soil is used, it must be disinfected before use, otherwise it may easily get infected.
Fertilizing
Fertilize your plant with a water-soluble fertilizer recommended for use on indoor plants, mixed half strength. Apply it every 3 or 4 weeks, starting about a month after you receive the plant. Overfeeding is more likely to produce foliage than flowers.
Planting Instructions
You can buy greek cyclamen directly from stores if you want plants that are already growing. You can also grow them from seeds, with the best time to sow them being in the fall. To accelerate germination, first soak the seeds in warm water at 30 ℃ for 2 to 3 hours. Plant the soaked seeds into prepared soil.
Cover the seeds with clean, sandy soil at a depth of about 5 to 8 mm, and keep the soil moist. After planting, maintain the temperature at 18 ℃ and the humidity at 90%. It may take up to 3 weeks for the seeds to germinate. Transplant seedlings into the garden or a flower pot once they have grown 3 to 4 leaves. The seedlings must be watered thoroughly and shaded for 1 to 2 days after transplanting.
Pruning
Proper pruning helps greek cyclamen to grow better. During growth periods, thin or weak leaves should be cut off, together with their stems. Remove any infected leaves promptly to prevent germs from infecting healthy leaves.
When greek cyclamen enters dormancy, in temperatures of up to 30 ℃, it is recommended to keep 4 to 6 leaves and remove any extra ones, which will avoid excessive nutrient consumption and promote growth after dormancy. It is not a good idea to leave them without any leaves because dormant corms with leaves sprout earlier than those without leaves.
Propagation
Greek cyclamen is a charming Mediterranean native prized for its attractive foliage and distinctive flowers. When propagating greek cyclamen through cutting, choose healthy, non-flowering shoots to improve root development. Use a sharp, clean knife to minimize damage and reduce the chance of infection. Make sure to plant the cuttings in a well-draining medium, providing indirect light and consistent moisture without waterlogging. Rooting hormones can promote faster root growth. For successful propagation, maintain a stable environment, avoiding temperature extremes that can stress young plants.
Repotting
Repotting greek cyclamen every 2-3 years in spring to coincide with its active growth post-dormancy. This petite perennial flourishes best in a slightly larger pot to accommodate its tuberous roots. Use well-draining soil and a pot with ample drainage holes. Post-repotting, keep greek cyclamen in a cool, brightly lit area, and water sparingly to prevent tuber rot—a key step for the plant’s recovery and vigor.
Rest period
Cyclamen graecum requires a rest period after flowering. In nature it goes dormant during the summer months, comes into growth as cooler, damper weather starts, flowers in autumn, winter or spring, and goes dormant again as the summer becomes warm. Stop watering when the leaves turn yellow and wither. Keep the pot in a cool place, if possible, and allow the soil to become dry. It may be placed outdoors during the summer in a location where rainfall won’t reach it, out of direct sunlight.
Once all the leaves have dried, a process that could take up to two months, the tuber may be repotted into a container that is 1 inch larger in diameter than the old pot. This is usually necessary only every 2 years. Use a packaged, peaty soil mixture. The top half of the tuber should protrude above the soil line to assure adequate drainage and avoid tuber rot. Do not water it, as this could trigger new growth prematurely.
In fall when new leaves start to grow, water the soil thoroughly. If you have trouble getting the potting soil to take up water, add a couple drops of hand dish-washing detergent to the water. This will not harm the plant, but will act as a wetting agent. If new growth hasn’t occurred by late October you can go ahead and water it. As long as the tubers are still plump and hard, they should be okay. Wait for shoots to appear and the soil to become rather dry – then water thoroughly again.
Pests and Diseases
The plants can develop thrip, fungus gnat and/or mite infestations. Control is achieved by removing infected plants and controlling thrips. They are susceptible to TSWV/INSV, root rot pathogens, Fusarium wilt, Bacterial wilt (Ewinia spp.) and Botrytis.
