Lawn Care Tips


Beautiful grass does not come without a little effort. The effort varies depending on what type of floor you have. For example, if you plant trees and shrubs, the bottom of the sand or gravel is very good. Landscape plants are also polluted. And the grass is different. Grass grows constantly throughout the growing season and requires an adequate supply of nutrients and water.

One of the most basic tips for lawn care is regular watering and fertilizing to keep the lawn beautiful. If you are fortunate enough to have grass that was originally planted in good and rich soil, you don’t have to work nearly as hard as someone like me who plants grass on gravel sand. The floor in our house has little nutritional value and cannot store moisture. My grass began to dry out in mid-May. It is very difficult for us to make our pages look good.

Grass is an area where small clay soils are a good thing. Standing water is certainly not good, but it is useful to have a floor that can store moisture. If you accidentally posted a new page, here are some news from my page maintenance tips that do things differently around the world: add lots of organic material before installing your new page if you have sand or gravel floors. The easiest way to do this is to find good, rich topsoil and spread it on your existing soil.

Because most grasses grow very strong, they need an extra amount of nutrients to look good. Just use one of the four level programs offered by fertilizer producers. Most of these programs include weed control besides fertilizer. Here in the north we usually have two weed treatments in our yard.

Rock can be a problem and I think it’s a weed. To fight crustaceans, you need to use preformed herbicides which prevent the germination of crab seeds. For this herbicide to be effective, you need to apply it in early spring while the soil temperature is still below 45 ° F.

Lawn Care Tips

Leafy weeds like dandelions are another problem, though relatively easy to control. Most leaf herbicides are mixed with fertilizer and must be used when the grass and weeds are moist. Wet green causes the herbicide to stick to the weeds, giving the herbicide time to be absorbed by the weeds. After the herbicide is digested, it is transmitted through weed plants and killed it completely.

This type of herbicide is considered “selective” because they seem to know the difference between herbs and weeds. Therefore, they only kill leafy herbs, not grass itself. However, many people have different types of thick grass on their lawn, such as charlatan grass. The grass is on the ugly side and can really damage the grass. The problem is that it is still in the grass family and the “selective” herbicide leaves it alone because it is a card carried by a member of the grass family.

And what should someone do?

To get rid of this thick grass, you need to use “non-selective” herbicides, and “non-selective” herbicides no matter who kills. At least that applies to the plant kingdom. If you use “non-selective” herbicides, you must understand that everything you spray will die. But, in fact, this is the only effective way to free your yard from unwanted thick grass. This type of treatment is effective if you have an isolated area that contains broadleaf grass. You need to spray all the grass in the area and then replant it with high quality grass seeds.

My herbicide for this type of spray is RoundUp®. RoundUp® is believed to have no residual effect, which means it does not remain on the ground. This means that new grass seeds or young grass plants are not affected by herbicides. As a non-selective herbicide, you must be careful when spraying and ensure that the spray does not spread to other plants or grasses that you don’t want to kill.

To prevent the spray from coming out, adjust the nozzle so that the spray pattern is narrow with larger spray drops. You don’t want a finely atomized spray when there is a risk of spraying. This also helps keep the pressure on the sprayer as low as possible. Pump the sprayer at least as often as to keep the pressure down. You only want enough pressure to produce a spray, but not to the point where it can be easily carried by the wind.
Just buy an herbicide spray and label it like that. You never want to spray plants with sprayers used for herbicides.

Wait three days before doing anything else after spraying the area you want to kill. After three days, the grass you spray may not look different. However, if sprayed properly, he will die. It takes three days for the herbicide to spread throughout the plant, then the plant dies. While weeds and grass look good, you can start digging and mowing and don’t have to worry about them growing back. If you start digging and weeding before three days have passed, stop the herbicide and weeds and grass that you want to kill can come back.


If you accidentally install new grass, be sure to spray all weeds and grass before you begin. After you install the page, you certainly don’t want to solve all the problems associated with killing and rearranging the page. If you make sure that all these unwanted substances have been killed before you start, you will be far ahead of the game.

When choosing grass seeds, you should always use a mixture that is recommended for your area. Here in the north, popular mixes contain perennial wheat grass, fescue and blue grass. Keep in mind that the germination of blue grass seeds takes 28 days, whereas most of the permanent wheat grass germinates within 5 or 6 days. So you never want to plant grass in Kentucky that is 100% blue grass. Before blue grass seeds can germinate, weeds can grow actively in your yard.

With this mixture, germinating grasses appear faster and function as plants for slower germinating seeds. The presence of the mixture also gives you protection if new pests appear that attack certain types of grass.

People often ask if they need hydroseed in the grass to be good. The answer is no. Hydroseed is not a magic formula. This is nothing more than a fantastic way to apply grass seeds. Seeder is just a machine that mixes water, grass seeds, fertilizer and mulch into fertilizer that is sprayed into your yard. The ingredients are exactly the same as what you will use if you sow by hand, except for mulch.

And contrary to popular belief, hydro-mulch is no better than good, old-fashioned straw. I think far straw, mulch is much better. The main advantage of hydroseeds is that the grass seeds are soaked before use, which ensures germination. This is a big advantage when seed is on a highway where it is not practical to wet the seed after application. That really doesn’t mean much in your home. Manual sowing works perfectly.

With both of these methods, you still need to water properly after sowing is complete. Many people believe that hydroseeds should not be watered as much as hand seeds. This is a big misunderstanding. If you don’t water the hydrose after application, it will still germinate and small grass will appear. But only a few hours without water on a hot day and this little grass will wither and die. This is a big problem because the seeds run out after germination. All the water in the world will not make the seeds used to produce other herbal plants.

Hydroseeds has their advantages, but this is not so important for the yard. Why do I say that straw is better than mulch hydromulch? Think about how hydromulch is used. It is mixed with seeds, fertilizer and water as pulp and sprayed on grass. Mulching is not applied to seeds, so mulch must be applied, everything is mixed. Some seeds are below the mulch and some seeds are above the mulch. Mulch may not be too good if the seed is on top. You can also sunbathe!

Now think about the process of sowing hands. The seeds are spread on the ground, so you need to take the piston broom and pull it back on the seeds. This applies a very thin layer of soil to most seeds. Then spread the straw to the ground. Pieces of straw were scattered in all directions, many of them intersecting.

Do you remember the film “Honey, I’m shrinking kids”? Where do you walk through the grass and the grass is very large compared to them? That is the grass seed under mulch straw. These little grass seeds get lost under straw and that is what you want to protect from strong sunlight.

Because the sun works in the sky, grass seeds are filtered by sunlight. Enough sunlight to warm the seeds to grow, but enough shade to protect the soft young grass. When grass grows, they also increase mulch with them to a certain extent and provide additional shade for seeds that have not germinated. Shadows that make straws mulch also help maintain moisture around the seeds. Grass seeds will never get such protection from hydro-mulch.

Another feature of Hydroseed is that manure turns into a blanket on the grass when it dries. In heavy rain, flowing water falls under this blanket and supports it, so that large areas remain seedless. You make adhesives that you can actually add to the hydrosis mixture, but my experience shows that the adhesives hold the hydrose a little longer, but if it does wash a much larger area, wash it because they are glued together. .

By sowing manually, each seed is independent and falls between the corners and stem of the soil. In heavy rain, running water must be raw enough to wash the soil before the seeds can be transplanted. I have installed hundreds of pages using both of these techniques. For the price difference, I will take a page that is sown manually every day.


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