Stephanotis flowers have long been treasured for their beauty and sweet scent. The tropical twining vine, with its dark shiny foliage and snowy flowers, are a traditional element in wedding bouquets and many of us received our first info on the Stephanotis flower from our florist.
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Stephanotis floribunda syn. S. jasminoides, the Madagascar jasmine, waxflower, Hawaiian wedding flower, or bridal wreath is a species of flowering plant in the family Apocynaceae, native to Madagascar.
Despite its common name, the species is not a “true jasmine” and not of the genus Jasminum.
Growing to 6 m (20 ft) or more, it is an evergreen woody climber with oval leaves and clusters of pure white, waxy, intensely fragrant tubular flowers. The leather-like leaves are up to about 5 × 9 cm in size; they are glossy dark green.
The flowers are waxy, star-shaped and highly scented, about 3 cm long, in clusters and are produced in summer. This vine flowers only on new growth, and thus pruning should be kept to a minimum, especially during the growth season. Flowers fade to yellow after several days and the deep, rich fragrance turns sour in smell. The flowers are in axillary umbels. The flowering period is from spring to fall.
The wreath loop forms large plum-like fruits, which, however, rarely set in specimens cultivated as indoor plants. The ovoid-shaped fruits contain numerous seeds with pappus.
Madagascar’s climate, with its moderate temperatures, high humidity and seasonal cycles of hot, wet summers and cool, dry winters provides the optimal growing conditions for Stephanotis. Grown commercially, the trumpet-shaped blooms are in season year-round, provided they are given enough light and water, and are a popular component of bridal bouquets. It grows best in sunny, tropical conditions, or inside.
In areas where the outside winter temperature drops below 4 °C (39 °F), Stephanotis floribunda can be wintered over in greenhouse or household settings. During the summer growth season, this vine requires full sun, abundant water, high humidity and a balanced fertilizer. As temperatures begin to cool, pots should be brought indoors and placed in the sunniest location available. Stephanotis floribunda appears to do best if root bound. The soil mixture used should have a high content of loam and peat moss with generous drainage material such as perlite or coarse sand. Although Stephanotis do not technically go dormant, their growth is slowed and flowering is infrequent if kept in a cool, dry condition.
This plant has gained the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit.
Propagation is by cuttings or by the seeds, which are produced irregularly.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Outdoors the plant requires full sun though afternoon shade may help the vine from becoming scorched. Indoors the plant needs a sunny windowsill for growth.
Temperature and Humidity
Stephanotis vines are very intolerant of frost, and will only grow outdoors in zones 10 and warmer. Stephanotis vines appreciate a cool root run, so cover the soil with shredded bark or another natural mulch.
Do what you can to boost the humidity around the plant throughout the growing season: mist the plant, keep it beside a water feature, keep the pot in a dish of pebbles and water, or spray the concrete of your patio.
Watering
Stephanotis vines like moist but not soggy soil. Don’t try to make up for a lack of humidity by overwatering the plant; you’ll end up with root rot. Water the plant infrequently if you have a cooler, less humid environment.
Soil
Use soil with a high content of loam and peat moss. Keep the soil well-draining by adding perlite or coarse sand. Add some organic matter to provide essential trace nutrients and to help to acidify the soil between a pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
Fertilizing
In the spring, when the weather begins to warm, fertilize your stephanotis with a balanced flower fertilizer, following product label instructions. Fertilize the plant once a month until the winter resting time resumes.
Pruning
Pruning does not harm this plant. Prune the vine lightly in the late winter, just to retain a pleasing form. Find the main stems and trim off side shoots to reduce the size of the plant. You can also cut the main stems by half their size to lighten the plant. Take care not to allow the plant’s milky sap to drip on your furniture.
Propagation
Propagate stephanotis with cuttings any time during the year. Take these steps:
- Choose a cutting with internodes between 1 and 2 inches apart. You will want to insert two of the nodes into the rooting medium for better results.
- Remove the lower leaves on the cutting but leave two or three leaves on top of the stem and dip the bottom of the cutting into the rooting hormone.
- Fill a small container with sand, peat, or perlite and insert cuttings up to 4 inches deep.
- Mist the cutting or provide a humid environment in bright conditions.
- Cuttings will root in four to six weeks and may flower in a year.
How to Grow from Seed
It is considered difficult to grow stephanotis from seed because it is rare to produce the fruit with the seed. More often older stephanotis vines will produce the fruit and pods. The pods may take months to almost a year to ripen enough to harvest the seeds. The seeds are smallish, white, and furry. If you do have withered, brown pods with seeds, you can try the following:
- Harvest seeds from split pods and begin preparing to plant the seeds immediately for best germination rates. The seeds do not need to be dried out or stratified.
- Place seeds in a tray or small pot filled with potting soil and cover with soil.
- Keep humidity levels high by placing a clear plastic bag over the tray or pot.
- Place the container in a bright spot without direct sunlight and keep the tray or pot warm (about 75 degrees Fahrenheit).
- Once a few true leaves have emerged, transplant the seedling into a larger pot with potting soil and trellising to support the rapidly growing vines.
Potting and Repotting
Due to the plant’s vigorous growth, you may need to repot stephanotis every other year to a larger container. Choose a large container with adequate drainage holes for your stephanotis vine. Fill it with half potting soil and half leaf mold or compost. Always provide a trellis, hoop, or lattice to support the vine.
Overwintering
Overwintering stephanotis grown indoors is extremely important for proper care of the plant. Winter care seems like an afterthought for the stephanotis, but don’t ignore it during this critical resting phase or the plant will begin to deteriorate. Here are steps you need to take to ensure your indoor plant survives and thrives:
Even though the plant loves humidity, cease humidity efforts in winter and allow the vine’s atmosphere to become dry.
The plant requires very little watering in the winter.
Do not fertilize the plant in the winter.
Stephanotis vines like cool, bright conditions in the winter. The plant prefers a cool greenhouse environment kept in the range of 50 degrees Fahrenheit. A heating element may be necessary to keep the temperature regulated. Temperatures lower than 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and especially any frost, can kill the plant.
Do not prune the plant until late winter or early spring.
Pests and Diseases
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Watch for spider mites and scale, which proliferate in greenhouses on stressed plants. Other common pests include the root-knot nematode, aphids, mealybugs, and thrips.
The most common disease to affect stephanotis is root rot as a result of overwatering or having wet feet. The plant can also show sooty mold, a fungal disease that occurs on many flowering plants when insects, such as scale, leave behind “honeydew” secretions that attract fungi. The problem with sooty mold is that the layer of mold will inhibit the photosynthesis process. Carefully monitor insect problems to control sooty mold.
Common Problems
This is a demanding and particular plant that may present many problems. Here are a few to watch for.
- Dropping Flowers and Leaves
The plant may be stressed from extreme temperature changes or watering issues. Avoid moving stephanotis, especially when it’s flowering.
- Patches on Leaves or Stems
Any odd patches on leaves or stems that look wooly or brown indicate a pest problem. Remove pests by hand when possible.
- Yellow Leaves
You will need to fertilize the plant. Try a more frequent weekly feeding. Remove yellow leaves and see how the plant reacts to the new feeding schedule.
- No Buds or Flowers
The plant will not produce buds if it is growing in low humidity, too cool temperatures, no fertilizer, or poor winterizing.
III. Uses and Benefits
Madagascar jasmine is a fragrant tropical vine that can thrive in outdoor gardens only in suitable climates with less harsh winters. It requires a sunny position that ensures enough warmth, but at the same time is not lacking in humidity and moisture. It can be grown as a specimen over a wire, trellis, or similar support. However, due to its high care requirements and fussy nature, it is best grown in greenhouses.
