Blue Flax is a herbaceous perennial originally native to Europe. It blooms profusely over two to three months starting in late spring. Oil can be extracted from the seeds, though blue Flax produces less than half as many seeds as its annual relatives. Linen can be made from the stems.
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Linum perenne, the perennial flax, blue flax or lint, is a flowering plant in the family Linaceae, native to Europe, primarily in the Alps and locally in England. It has been introduced into North America, where it can be found on mountain ridges, wooded areas, and in sandy plain habitats of the sagebrush steppe, growing near sagebrush and rabbitbrush (Chrysothamnus).
It is a slender herbaceous perennial plant growing to 90 centimeters (3 ft) tall from a fairly woody root crown, with tough, unbranched stems, and many spirally arranged narrow lanceolate leaves 1–2.5 cm long. The flowers are blue, 2.5–5 cm (1–2 in) in diameter, and have five petals. The flowers will fall off if the stems are broken.
The English populations are sometimes distinguished as Linum perenne subsp. anglicum and high altitude populations in the Alps as Linum perenne subsp. alpinum. The similar western North American species Linum lewisii is sometimes treated as a subspecies of L. perenne.
Native Americans used the stems to make fishing line and nets.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Perennial flax can tolerate some shade, but it needs plenty of sunlight to truly thrive. Plant in a spot that receives at least six hours of sunlight a day. While full sunlight is ideal, it will still flower its popular striking blue flowers in partial shade if all other conditions are met.
Watering
Thriving in its native habitat’s temperate conditions, blue Flax has adapted to moderate moisture levels and exhibits a preference for consistent but not excessive watering. This species is drought-tolerant yet appreciates soil that remains lightly moist, aligning with a watering schedule of once every week. As an outdoor perennial often cultivated for its delicate blue flowers, blue Flax balances its water use efficiently throughout the growing season, ensuring resilience against variable rainfall.
Soil
When it comes to soil, perennial flax isn’t fussy, as long as it’s well-draining. Clay soil clings to water, so you won’t need to water your plant as often. Sandy soil drains quicker, requiring more frequent watering.
Despite not being fussy about soil type, loamy soil rich in organic matter is the goal. If your garden has heavy clay soil, you may want to add a few amendments to improve drainage. River sand and coconut husk are great organic materials that improve the drainage and aeration of your soil. Sandy soil can be amended with compost to improve moisture retention.
Fertilizing
For blue Flax, a balanced fertilizer is ideal for overall health, favoring high phosphorus types during bloom to enhance flowering. Fertilize lightly in spring and repeat every 4-6 weeks until midsummer, respecting the recommended label dosage. Avoid over-fertilization, which can hinder growth. Seasonal changes dictate lesser quantities as growth slows. Practical tip: Mix fertilizer with water for even distribution and root absorption. Novices should start with half-strength to prevent burn, while experienced gardeners can adjust based on blue Flax’s response.
Planting Instructions
The best time to plant perennial flax is in spring. Late summer or early fall will also work, but these times of year aren’t ideal. This delicate plant is easily found in local garden centers or nurseries. You can also transplant propagated flax once the seeds are mature enough or when the cuttings have developed roots.
When planting, ensure the planting hole is approximately 16 inches deep. Place your plant in the hole and refill with organic, rich, and well-draining soil. Increase the aeration and drainage of your soil by adding peat moss or coconut husk – a great sustainable substitute.
Once the root ball is covered with at least one inch of soil, gently press the soil down around the plant. Water your new plant thoroughly and keep watering consistently for several days until the plant is established. You can add a thin layer of organic mulch to help maintain soil moisture too.
These plants enjoy their space. When planting more than one plant, space them around 18 inches apart to prevent competition and overcrowding.
Maintenance
As you have surely noticed, perennial flax is an extremely easy-going plant, needing very little attention to thrive. The most important maintenance task is general garden hygiene and care.
Ensure no stray weeds are creeping around the base of your young plant. Weeds can quickly suffocate establishing plants and should be pulled out immediately. Take care not to damage the roots in the process. A thin layer of mulch may be necessary to squash the growth of any weeds.
Perennial flax does tend to appear leggy, so pruning may be necessary, simply for aesthetic purposes. While not needed, pruning is a healthy gardening habit to take up as it encourages flowering and new growth.
Some gardeners tend to cut their flax down by half following its first bloom. However, this isn’t usually needed and in some cases, it can impact the chance of reflowering throughout the season.
You can deadhead the plant throughout the season to keep it tidy. Deadheading is particularly important at the end of the season if you want to prevent the plant from self-seeding and spreading around your garden.
Propagation
There are two ways to propagate flax – from seed or cuttings. Both are common methods but propagating through, cuttings are easiest. Let’s take a look at both methods, and what you can expect when you utilize either.
Propagating From Seeds
The best time to propagate from seed is during fall when most of the seed pods have browned. In the wild, perennial flax self-seeds, creating the wildflower fields often found across Europe.
You can simply leave your group of plants to spread naturally. However, if you’d like to control where it grows, gather seeds when the pods have turned brown and dried out to replant them. Gathering seeds is as easy as shaking the pods over a bowl or towel and picking up the fallen seeds.
Duplicate the natural propagation process by covering the seeds in a light dusting of potting soil and keeping the area cool until germination. You can also sow seeds indoors and transplant them later. Simply place the seeds in a tray filled with seed starting mix and sprinkle coconut coir over them. Replicate greenhouse conditions by covering the tray with a plastic bag and keeping the soil moist throughout the germination process.
Once the seeds have germinated (typically in about a month) they’re ready to be planted in beds or pots. Perennial flax grown from seeds typically flower within the first year.
Propagating From Cuttings
Taking cuttings isn’t the go-to method for propagating flax, but it’s a super quick and easy way to increase your stock. Flax is propagated by taking cuttings from new growth at the bottom of the plant. These are called basal cuttings, which come from growth shoots at the base of the plant around the crown.
It’s best to take cuttings in early spring when the plant is well established. Before cutting, ensure the stems are firm and approximately 4 inches long. There should also be an established underground stem.
Using sharp, clean sheers, cut the stem as close to the base as possible. To increase the chance of your cutting rooting, gently dip the cut end into some rooting hormone. This little trick is optional, but it does stimulate growth and protects the cutting from disease.
Plant individual cuttings in a container filled with a propagating mix and water thoroughly. Place the containers in a shaded place with greenhouse-like conditions. These conditions are simple enough to replicate by covering the containers with a plastic bag or heating the container from the bottom. Maintain humidity by keeping the soil moist and misting the plant throughout the rooting stage.
Rooting should take a few weeks. If the cutting offers some resistance when you gently tug on it, you can be sure roots have developed. You can also tell if you spot any new growth peeking through the drainage holes of the pot.
The best time to transplant stem cuttings is in summer. These new cuttings should flower the following spring.
Transplanting
Ideally, relocate blue Flax when the rejuvenating energy of mid to late spring unfolds, ensuring hearty root establishment. Select a sunny spot with well-drained soil. If you encounter dense clumps, gentle division aids blue Flax’s seamless transition.
Repotting
For blue Flax, a perennial herb with slender stems and a bushy habit, repotting every 2-3 years to avoid overcrowding. Springtime repotting supports its active growth phase. Choose a medium-sized pot that allows root expansion. Ensure it’s well-draining to replicate blue Flax’s native habitat. Post-repot, water sparingly; overwatering can harm it. Provide bright, indirect light for successful acclimatization. Friendly reminder: blue Flax loves a snug fit, so don’t go too big with the new pot!
Pests and Diseases
Common Pests
Flax plants aren’t generally bothered by pests, with most varieties being deer and rabbit resistant. Their stunning flowers tend to attract many pollinators like bees and butterflies to gardens. However, flax can attract aphids, snails, and slugs from time to time.
Luckily, these pests are easy to manage and eradicate, so don’t worry if you spot them near or on your flax plants.
Aphids are a common garden pest, often nestling in the undersides of leaves of the most unsuspecting plants. If left unattended, their colonies can easily run wild. But there are a few simple tricks to manage and avoid an aphid infestation.
Checking the undersides of leaves should be part of your daily gardening routine. If you notice an aphid or two, simply squish them between your fingers. You can also spray them off with a spray bottle or drop them into a bucket filled with soapy water.
Larger aphid colonies call for something stronger. Fill your spray bottle with a diluted mixture of neem oil, or another horticultural oil, and spray down your plants. While neem oil is often the go-to pesticide for aphids, it can deter other beneficial insects. You can also introduce aphid predators into your garden, like ladybugs, to prey on aphids and control the infestation for you.
Slugs and snails are just as easy to manage. Pick them off your fax and move them to another spot. You can keep them off your plants altogether by placing traps around the base of your plants too.
Common Diseases
Flax is generally a worry-free plant, facing very little chance of encountering serious diseases. However, fungal diseases can affect these plants, especially if they’re constantly exposed to waterlogged soil.
The main fungal diseases that plague this plant are rust, fusarium wilt, and powdery mildew.
While the chances are slim, your bright blue flax may encounter rust fungus. Symptoms usually appear as orange, brown, or red spots on foliage. If left to spread, it can cause stunted growth, leaf drop, and reduced flowering. The fungus responsible for this disease is Melampsora lini, which can overwinter on plant debris. Rust can be managed by removing affected foliage and keeping the area around the plants free of any plant debris.
Fusarium wilt is a common fungus affecting many plants, including flax. It typically causes wilting and yellowing leaves and can kill off young seedlings. Unfortunately, this disease thrives in the soil and enters the plant through the uptake of water. The best way to deal with Fusarium wilt is by uprooting affected plants and destroying them. It’s also advised that you don’t grow flax in that spot again.
Powdery mildew is another common, but luckily less deadly, fungus. It causes a powdery white fungus to grow on flax foliage, inhibiting growth and making the plant appear unsightly.
Fungal diseases can usually be prevented by following a few tricks. Maintain good garden hygiene by removing plant debris around the base of your plants and only using clean gardening tools. Improve air circulation by pruning your flax. Also, leave sufficient space between these and any other plants in your beds. Be aware of your watering habits and avoid overhead watering or overwatering your plants.
III. Uses and Benefits
- Ornamental uses
When grown in large groups, the flowering blue Flax creates a beautiful mat of decorative blooms and foliage during the spring and summer. It thrives in well-draining soils and tolerates drought, meaning it’s perfect for rock or cottage gardens. Groups of the flowers form ornamental borders and fill garden beds, but smaller groups can grow in pots on outdoor patios.
- Culinary uses
Their uses extend into the kitchen too. Its seeds are packed with omega-3s and can be eaten in a number of ways. Cooking the seeds releases a nutty flavor that pairs well with a variety of meals, including salads and soups. Or you could grind cooked seeds and toss the powder into your morning breakfast smoothie.
Perennial flax seeds do contain cyanide, which is destroyed during the cooking process. It’s not advised to consume raw seeds and always cook them well before consuming them.
IV. Harvesting and Storage
Harvesting
Flax may have a long history of commercial use, playing major roles in the textile, medicinal, and beauty industries. But, this gorgeous plant’s benefits and uses spread to home use too.
Commercially, seeds are harvested when seed capsules are dark, dry, and hard, while the stems have begun to yellow. Harvesting takes place in mid to late summer by windrowing. This is also the time when stems are gathered for extracting fiber.
Home gardeners luckily don’t need large farming machinery to gather seeds from their perennial flax. Gather seeds when the seed capsules have darkened and hardened by cutting a bunch of stems and shaking them vigorously. Shake the stems over a towel or large tray so you can easily gather the fallen seeds.
Next, sift through the other fallen plant debris, like leaves and sealed seed pods. Whole flax seeds should be left behind, either for propagation or for culinary use.
Storage
Flaxseeds tend to stay fresh for quite some time, but it’s best to store them in an airtight container. A cool, dark, and dry pantry is the best place to store your perennial flax seeds. You can also place your seeds in the refrigerator for up to a year.
Depending on how you plan to use your seeds, you can either keep them whole or grind them. Both forms stay fresh either in the pantry or fridge.
