When you need a quick addition of colorful flowers to brighten up your home during the winter, grab a few indoor cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) at the grocery store or garden center. These potted plants are popular holiday gifts, both for Christmas and Valentine’s Day, thanks to their red or pink flowers and pretty green, heart-shaped leaves that often have silver patterns. This guide will help you care for your indoor cyclamen so it will bloom for weeks in winter, plus you’ll get tips for helping your plant bloom again the next year.
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Cyclamen persicum, the Persian cyclamen, is a species of flowering herbaceous perennial plant growing from a tuber, native to rocky hillsides, shrubland, and woodland up to 1,200 m (3,900 ft) above sea level, from south-central Turkey to the Levant. It also grows in Algeria and Tunisia and on the Greek islands of Rhodes, Karpathos, and Crete, where it may have been introduced by monks. Cultivars of this species are the commonly seen florist’s cyclamen.
Cyclamen persicum is a perennial, herbaceous plant that reaches heights of about 32 cm (13 in). Wild plants have heart-shaped, fleshy leaves, up to 14 cm (6 in) usually green with lighter markings on the upper surface. The leaf underside may be pale green or reddish. The leaf margin is slightly thickened and usually serrated.
As a storage and persistence organ, C. persicum forms a perennial hypocotyl tuber. It arises solely through a thickening of the hypocotyl, the shoot axis area between the root neck and the first cotyledon. The rounded, slightly flattened tuber is about 4 to 15 cm or more in diameter. It is of corky consistency. The roots spring from the underside, and the tops of the spirally arranged, long-stalked leaves of the plant spring from the top.
Flowers
Flowers bloom from winter to spring (var. persicum) or in autumn (var. autumnale) and have 5 small sepals and 5 upswept petals, usually white to pale pink with a band of deep pink to magenta at the base. Cyclamen carry on individual stems standing flowers that hang down but whose petals are bent strongly upwards. In the species, flowers are sweetly scented, but the scent has been lost in cultivated forms.
Fruit
After pollination, the flower stem curls downwards slightly as the pod develops, but does not coil as in other cyclamens. Plants go dormant in summer. The fruits are capsules, which are sunk into the ground with increasing maturity, by waxing and curling of the stem. The capsules only open when they are in the ground.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Cyclamen grow best in partial shade and prefer bright, indirect light. For the best cyclamen to care indoors, try to recreate the conditions that help them thrive outside. Experienced growers suggest situating these plants near a south-facing window throughout winter, making certain to avoid direct sun.
Temperature & Humidity
Cyclamen plants don’t like extreme heat, drafts, or dry air. They do best in a climate that replicates their native environment, preferring temperatures between 40°F and 50°F at night and between 60°F and 70°F during the day. High humidity, especially during the winter, is crucial. To raise the humidity, keep your plant on a tray filled with water and pebbles, making sure the pot isn’t continuously touching the water (as this can cause root rot).
If you moved your plant outdoors for the summer, bring it back indoors before the weather turns cold. A good rule of thumb is to bring it inside while the temperature is still comfortable for you and you can keep your windows open without feeling chilled indoors.
Watering
Consistent moisture is a key aspect of cyclamen plant care, especially for container-based options. When the top third of the soil or compost has dried, water cyclamen in pots thoroughly. Bear in mind that watering container plants from above can lead to fungal diseases within the plant, specifically the crown. Water at the base of the plant so as to avoid splashing the stems or leaves. Soak the soil thoroughly and let excess water drain away.
Soil
When grown outdoors, cyclamen just require a soil that drains well, with a neutral or slightly acidic pH. For indoor growing, choose a compost for your houseplant that blends good moisture retention with adequate drainage. Most high-quality potting mixes are suitable for good indoor cyclamen care. Gardeners can also create their own medium using a combination of compost, coconut coir, perlite and other amendments.
Fertilizing
While indoor cyclamen plants require routine fertilization, it’s important to avoid overfeeding. A surplus of nutrients within the soil leads to excessive leafy growth. When feeding cyclamen plants, use only low-nitrogen fertilizers every six weeks to two months. Continue feeding during the growing season, but cease as the plant approaches dormancy.
Pruning
Proper pruning of cyclamen involves simply removing yellowing, dead leaves as they appear. Fading flowers and seeds heads can also be plucked off, which may extend the blooming period.
Propagation
Propagating cyclamen is a difficult process, as stem cuttings to not readily root, and the cultivated varieties are often hybrids that do not produce fertile seeds. The best way to propagate these plants is by dividing the corm-like tuberous roots, though this must be done carefully to ensure viability. Cutting the tubers often opens the root up to rot, so be prepared for failure. Here’s how to attempt it:
- In summer when the plant is fairly dormant, extract the plant from its pot and remove the stems.
- If the corm-like tuber has developed offsets, carefully break these away from the main root. If there are no offsets, look for growth eyes, and carefully slice the tuber into pieces, each piece containing at least one growth eye.
- Immediately replant the pieces in a well-draining, peat-based growing mix. Each root piece should be just barely peeking up out of the potting mix.
- Moisten the potting mix, but then place it in a dry, shady spot. In the fall, move it into a brighter location and begin watering weekly, which will stimulate new growth.
Potting and Repotting
After keeping your cyclamen blooming year after year, eventually you will need to repot your plant into a slightly larger container. When your plant outgrows its pot, wait until fall when new growth appears and then move it to a larger container. Provide fresh houseplant potting mix to ensure good drainage. Keep the top of the cyclamen tuber showing above the soil, like you had in the original pot. Use a clay pot to reduce chances of soggy soil.
Pests and Diseases
Cyclamen are prone to several different pests and diseases, sometimes caused by overwatering which can make the plant vulnerable.
Cyclamen Mites
Cyclamen houseplants are prone to mites between stems and leaves, which can cause curling leaves. Also, look for aphids on the stems and new growth.
Yellowing Leaves
A fuzzy gray fungus, called botrytis, is caused by overly wet soil and can turn leaves yellow with brown patches. Cut off affected leaves to improve air circulation but throw out the plant if all the leaves are in poor shape.
Drooping
Drooping or wilting leaves or flowers are often a sign of overwatering. Be sure your container has adequate drainage and wait to water until the top inch of the soil surface feels dry to the touch. Drooping may also occur if the plant gets too cold or is exposed to a draft.
How to Make Bloom Again
With proper cyclamen care, you can help your plant through its dormancy so it will bloom again in a few months. Hardy cyclamen planted outdoors go through this process naturally. Indoors, make sure cyclamen are kept in a relatively dark as well as cool environment while sleeping. Gently remove any dead foliage and leave to sit for a couple of months.
When a cyclamen has finished its dormancy period, you can start to water it again and bring it out of storage. New leaf growth is a good indication that your plant is waking up. At this point, you can set the pot in a tub of water for an hour or so, before letting any excess water drain away. Once leaves start to grow, resume normal cultivation. Even if cyclamen plants are not blooming again straight away, these steps to optimal cyclamen flower care should ensure they rebloom the following winter.
III. Seasonal Care for Cyclamen
Cyclamen have their most active growth in the winter, and they need special care at different times of the year.
Winter Care
Winter is the flowering season for cyclamen. Potted florist cyclamen plants actively grow during the winter, so this is the time when they should be moved into a spot with plenty of bright indirect light.
Correct watering is critical during this time, as the roots are highly sensitive to moisture and can easily develop rot. Wait for the leaves to begin to droop and the potting mix is dry to the touch before watering again.
Spring Care
As winter gives way to spring, potted cyclamen cyclamen stop flowering and naturally enter a semi-dormant stage. At this time they should be moved into a cool, shady location. Stop watering and allow the soil to dry out. Avoid the temptation to water during this time, as the roots will likely develop rot.
Spring into Summer
Your cyclamen’s leaves will start to turn yellow, dry out and fall off after you stop watering it in spring. The plant should remain dormant through summer. It can be placed outside as long as it is shaded from sunlight and kept sheltered from rain.
Summer through Fall
As summer gives way to fall, cyclamen can be moved into a spot with bright indirect light and nursed with gentle watering until new green growth begins to develop.
III. Uses and Benefits
- Ornamental uses
While the persian cyclamen is only appropriate for certain climates (and thus most popularly grown indoors), it can thrive in cool autumn temperatures. It is prized for its fragrant, multicolored heart-shaped blossoms that last three months of the year. Snowdrops, Trilliums, and Ferns provide beautiful contrast with the persian cyclamen.
- Other uses
Cyclamen persicum has a dark-brown tuberous root which is semi-poisonous. In some cultures, the tubers were used in making soap, as they generate a lather when mixed with water. The Bedouins of Mandate Palestine used to collect the root, and after grating it, would mix it with lime and sprinkle it over the surface of lakes or other large bodies of water known to contain fish. These poisonous mixtures would stun fish, which would then come to the surface and be collected by the fishermen. Such methods, as well as fishing with explosives, which came into use in the early 20th century, were banned by the British Mandate authorities.
Find Where to Buy the Best Persian Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum)
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