Are you looking for a new ever-bearing red raspberry variety to add to your garden this season? Transplant ‘Heritage’ bare roots and leafed-out plants in the spring, and they’ll produce berries for you in year one. In this guide, we show you how to plant, grow, and care for ‘Heritage’ raspberries.
I. Appearance and Characteristics
‘Heritage’ plants can grow six feet or more with lush, dense foliage. The deep green leaves are made up of alternately arranged leaflets. Tiny five-petaled flowers are white or light pink and appear in clusters.
While raspberry plants are typically grown for their delicious berries, the stems of their deep green, textured foliage can be used to elevate a simple bouquet or be displayed alone in a vase as a seasonal statement piece.
The fruits are bright, a saturated pinkish-red, and oh-so sweet!
‘Heritage’ is a popular commercial heirloom everbearing raspberry that has made its way to the list of favorites among home gardeners. It is beloved for its hardiness and high yields of high-quality, dark red, deliciously juicy medium-large berries, perfect for fresh eating and making jams and jellies. These plants are self-fertile, so no pollinators are necessary for them to produce fruits and you don’t need to plant more than one of this variety.
This variety grows erect and doesn’t require support, even though it can grow to six feet at maturity. If maintained properly with sufficient water and sunlight, plants may live for ten years. Growers from zones 4 to 8 can enjoy this plant, which survives well even when winters are harsh, though it may need some protection.
The canes produce two flushes of fruit per season unless pruned otherwise.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Although you can find some Rubus species under the forest canopy, Raspberry ‘Heritage’ loves sunlight. Full sun or partial shade (6-8 hours of sunshine) will be the best for it to thrive. Avoid too crowded bush to allow ample sunlight and air movement, which will prevent your plant from diseases.
Temperature
The preferred daytime temperatures are between 65 and 80°F (18-27°C), but ‘Heritage’ raspberries can tolerate much warmer. While hardy down to USDA zone 4, take care when temperatures fall below 5°F (-15°C) to protect the crown and root system.
Watering
Raspberry ‘Heritage’ thrives in moist environments, akin to its origins in temperate regions where consistent moisture is common. This species exhibits a preference for regular hydration but can tolerate short periods of dryness. Its watering schedule should be maintained at twice a week to support its water habits. As an outdoor plant often subject to natural precipitation, red raspberry ‘Heritage’ benefits from mulching to retain soil moisture and ensure steady water availability during its active growing season.
Soil
Soil preferred is well-draining sandy loam that is consistently watered and has a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. If your native soil isn’t conducive to growing raspberries, grab a large container. ‘Heritage’ raspberry plants perform well in pots and shouldn’t need any support. Check their water levels frequently.
Before planting, fully rid the area of weeds that may compete with shallow-rooted raspberry roots. If there is grass or stubborn perennial weeds, cover the area with a tarp for about a month. You can also start fresh with a metal raised garden bed.
Fertilizing
For optimal growth, raspberry ‘Heritage’ benefits from balanced nutrition fertilizers and occasionally high-nitrogen options. Apply a balanced, granular fertilizer (10-10-10) in early spring as red raspberry ‘Heritage’ breaks dormancy and again in late spring to support vigorous growth and fruit production. During the vegetative growth stage, a high-nitrogen fertilizer can promote leafy growth; however, over-application can inhibit fruiting. Adjust applications for seasonal needs; lessen in late summer and fall to prepare raspberry ‘Heritage’ for dormancy.
Apply fertilizer sparingly, following manufacturer recommendations to avoid root burn. Use compost for a slow-release, organic option, enhancing soil health. Practice soil testing to determine specific raspberry ‘Heritage’ nutrient needs and modify fertilization accordingly.
Planting Instructions
Generally, raspberry ‘Heritage’ is planted with saplings that are easily purchased from nursery or gardening store. Avoid red raspberry ‘Heritage’ collected in the forest as diseases are a big problem for wild Rubus.
Plant your red raspberry ‘Heritage’ in winter or early spring in your garden.
Raspberry ‘Heritage’ grows wild where there is much sunlight from above and a wealth of leaf litter, otherwise known as mulch or organic matter in the soil below. Because of this, your planting site is recommended to have ample sunlight and you should have organic matter such as grass clippings readily available. Keep your plants far away from any wild brambles to keep them healthy. Also, plant your raspberry ‘Heritage’ in separate rows. The optimum spacing can be achieved by creating rows about 3 m apart with plants 60 cm apart within each row. Set a trellis on each side and tie the canes onto the trellis line or wire.
Raspberry ‘Heritage’ will spread both rapidly and at long distances. If you do not want it everywhere in your garden, regularly prune it or grow it in containers. You are recommended to find a prickle-free and small variety to plant in pot, which may be handy for you. Use a shallow but large container for it because its roots spread shallowly outward. Potting soil and sunny place are standards for raspberry ‘Heritage’.
Pruning
Pruning is important for raspberry ‘Heritage’ growers. Prune all canes that bore fruit this year down to the bottom right after harvest. All first-year canes should be cut about half to stimulate lateral growth from the side every late winter or early spring. Remove all suckers and trim overcrowded canes. Raspberry ‘Heritage’ grown in patches must be pruned to ensure that individual canes are not touching to avoid disease infections. Be sure to remove any thinned or pruned canes from the field because old canes left on the ground can harbor disease.
Propagation
Raspberry plants are sold as bare roots or small plants in containers. How you plant them depends on the type of plant you receive. Starting a plant from seed is possible, but it’s a time-consuming and tedious process. While I love starting plants from seeds as much as the next gardener, I advise you to leave the hard work to the experts on this one.
- Bare-Roots
If you receive bare roots that do not feature any leaves yet, they will be frost-tolerant. They should be wrapped in plastic with some sort of packing medium like torn newspaper. Unwrap them when they arrive in the mail and ensure they’re moist, alive, and healthy. If you can’t plant them immediately, lightly mist the roots, loosely wrap them back up, and store them at 32-40°F (0-4°C).
- Transplants
Transplants will not be shipped to you until the risk of frost has passed, as they will not survive frosty conditions. When they arrive, confirm the roots are moist, alive, and healthy. These plants should not be stored in a refrigerated area but rather in a sunny spot indoors or in a greenhouse until you’re ready to plant outside.
Mulching
Apply several inches of organic mulch around your plants to keep weed pressure down, retain moisture, and keep the soil warm and cozy. Wood chips, shavings, compost, bark, and lawn clippings are recommended.
To make your own mulched leaves, mow over piled-up leaves a few times until they’re in smaller pieces. These will break down more quickly and add fertility to the soil, encouraging healthy fungi and microbes to flourish. Reapply mulch as materials break down.
If you live in colder climates, mulching is an important step for winter preparation. We layer several inches of aged compost to protect the crown and a thick layer of mulched leaves around the base. Add wood chips to the walking paths to increase insulation and reduce muddiness between rows.
Pests and Diseases
Common Pests
- Spotted-Wing Drosophila (SWD)
The dreaded and invasive spotted-wing drosophila (SWD) is native to Asia and can destroy a raspberry patch quickly. It has been feeding on and destroying fruit patches since its arrival in the United States in 2012. It’s often too late for the fruit once you realize you have an infestation.
Adult females lay their eggs inside immature fruits by making a small, inconspicuous slit in the fruits. Larva hatch out inside and begin feeding on the fruit innards. Gardeners don’t know of their presence until maturing fruits begin to soften and rot. Their life cycle is short, and several generations can hatch in one season. Some studies have shown success when using SWD traps.
- Leafhoppers
Leafhoppers will suck the sap out, potentially causing a decrease in photosynthesis and leaving ugly marks on the leaves.
Raspberry Beetle/Raspberry Fruit Worm
These pesky raspberry beetles have been around since the 1800s, hibernating as adults in soil across the United States and Canada. They emerge in the spring just in time for tender new growth and work their way up young, vulnerable plants.
Eggs are laid in late spring, and the larval stage is just over a month long. Larva are tiny brown worm-like beetles. Fruit worms eventually pupate and become adults, just in time for winter hibernation. Scouting, early detection, spinosad, weed, and debris control are acceptable organic treatments.
- Raspberry Cane Borers
It’s easy to identify if these are present in your raspberry patch. If the tips of shoots are suddenly wilting, look down a little way down on the stem for two cut rings. If they are present, then cane borers are the culprit! The space between these cuts made by the female adult is where she lays her eggs.
Larva hatch in June, moving up to the tips and feeding on the tender tips of primocanes. Remove the stem below the cut lines and throw it away, and in doing so, remove the larva present. Further control is not typically necessary.
- Raspberry Crown Borers
Raspberry crown borers are moths that resemble yellow jackets. Check for the long antennae and yellow legs to confirm the borer’s identification. In the larval stage, they will tunnel through and consume roots, canes, and crowns, disrupting the plant’s access to water and nutrients, a serious threat to your raspberry patch.
Scout for eggs in the summer on all plant surfaces and take note if your plant is suddenly in bad health overall. Besides destroying any eggs found, the best control against these is to remove infected plants and rid your garden of alternative feeding hosts. Studies show decreased numbers of larvae when entomopathogenic nematodes were applied in the summer.
- Spider Mites
You may see spider mites in dry years or when fruits are grown in a high tunnel. Safer soap and neem oil are acceptable organic treatments.
- Sap Beetles
Harvest on a regular schedule to avoid sap beetles feeding on overly ripened fruit. They’re attracted to the smell of rotting fruit and may bring disease with it.
Protect against deer and rabbits by fencing your plants, putting human or pet hair around your plot, applying coyote urine, keeping a radio turned on in the garden, or using a motion-activated light to ward off potential nighttime activity.
You can also plant garlic, lavender, marigolds, or chives near your raspberry patch. The strong fragrances may help deter raspberry pests.
Common Diseases
By nature, ‘Heritage’ is resistant to most major raspberry diseases, including powdery mildew, anthracnose, botrytis, raspberry cane blight, rust, spur blight, and other various viruses. However, you should practice good sanitation and proper care for the best results.
Cultural management for most diseases includes:
- Keeping your garden tidy and clear of debris
- Removing dead or questionably diseased canes right away
- Keeping weed pressure down and soil fertility up
- Avoiding overhead watering
- Providing plants with ample space and airflow
- Using clean, sanitized, sharp tools only
III. Harvesting and Storage
Taste the fruit and it will tell you when it is time to harvest. Ripe fruits will be sweet and juicy. If they are still sour or tart, let them ripen a bit longer. Usually you can start harvesting from mid-summer till mid-fall, according to varieties. You should harvest the fruits when all dews or raindrops are dry to prevent molds. They have a short shelf life, so refrigerate them after harvest without washing. As for some sour species, process them into delicious jams or jellies.