A widely used landscape plant in warmer climates, oleander is grown for its carefree habit and attractive star-shaped flowers that bloom nearly year-round. Because of its beauty and tough nature, this evergreen shrub is commonly seen along highway medians and in public landscapes in places like California, Florida, and Texas.
Native to the Mediterranean region, oleander bush is also well-suited to residential landscapes, but caution must be taken due to its toxicity. Here’s how to safely add and care for oleander in your yard.
| Common name | Kaner, Oleander, Rosebay, Rose Bay, Rose-bay, Rose Laurel |
| Botanical name | Nerium oleander |
| Family | Apocynaceae |
| Species | oleander |
| Origin | Europe, Asia |
| Life cycle | Woody |
| Plant type | Houseplant |
| Hardiness zone | 8, 9, 10 |
| Sunlight | Full Sun |
| Maintenance | Low |
| Soil condition | Clay |
| Drainage | Well-Drained |
| Growth rate | Fast |
| Spacing | 6 – ft. – 12 ft. |
| Harvest time | Fall |
| Flowering period | Spring |
| Height | 6 ft. 6 in. – 19 ft. 6 in. |
| Width | 6 ft. 6 in. – 19 ft. 6 in. |
| Flower color | Cream, Tan |
| Leaf color | Green |
| Fruit color | Brown, Copper |
| Stem color | Green |
| Fruit type | Follicle |
| Leaf benefit | Long-lasting |
| Flower benefit | Fragrant |
| Garden style | Drought Tolerant Garden |
| Uses | Coastal |
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Nerium oleander ( NEER-ee-əm), most commonly known as oleander or nerium, is a shrub or small tree cultivated worldwide in temperate and subtropical areas as an ornamental and landscaping plant. It is the only species currently classified in the genus Nerium, belonging to subfamily Apocynoideae of the dogbane family Apocynaceae. It is so widely cultivated that no precise region of origin has been identified, though it is usually associated with the Mediterranean Basin.
Oleander grows to 2–6 meters (7–20 feet) tall, with erect stems that splay outward as they mature; first-year stems have a glaucous bloom, while mature stems have a grayish bark. The leaves are in pairs or whorls of three, thick and leathery, dark-green, narrow lanceolate, 5–21 centimeters (2–8 inches) long and 1–3.5 cm (3⁄8–1+3⁄8 in) broad, and with an entire margin filled with minute reticulate venation web typical of eudicots. The leaves are light green and very glossy when young, maturing to a dull dark green.
The flowers grow in clusters at the end of each branch; they are white, pink to red, 2.5 – 5 cm (1–2 in) diameter, with a deeply 5-lobed fringed corolla round the central corolla tube. They are often, but not always, sweet-scented. The fruit is a long narrow pair of follicles 5–23 cm (2–9 in) long, which splits open at maturity to release numerous downy seeds.
Oleander has historically been considered a poisonous plant because of toxic compounds it contains, especially when consumed in large amounts. Among these compounds are oleandrin and oleandrigenin, known as cardiac glycosides, which are known to have a narrow therapeutic index and are toxic when ingested.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Oleander grows fast and can develop a lanky habit if not correctly maintained. One of the best ways to create the densest habit possible is to plant it in full sun, which also encourages the most blossoms. Oleander tolerates part shade, but in those conditions, it requires staking to prevent flopping and needs frequent pruning.
Temperature and Humidity
Although they grow in warm zones, most oleanders can survive a temperature that drops to freezing for a short period, but damage to the foliage may occur. Gardeners who live in areas where the temperature routinely drops to freezing should move their oleanders indoors for the winter.
Oleander grows best in an average humidity of about 40 percent.
Watering
Water whenever the top inch of the soil becomes dry. If transplanting a container-grown oleander from one pot to another, choose a larger container with drainage holes to prevent the plant from becoming root-bound.
Soil
Plant in well-drained soil for best results. Oleander shrubs can adapt to many kinds of soil conditions: poor soil, sandy soil, and a range of soil pH levels. Like many native Mediterranean plants, oleanders prefer alkaline soil, but they will grow in acidic or neutral soil, adapting to pH levels between 5.0 and 8.3. Before planting, test the pH level of the soil. If the soil is overly acidic, mix in ground limestone, oyster shells, or wood ash.
Fertilizing
Oleanders in the landscape don’t need much fertilizer. A slow-release, balanced granular fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 formulation, can be applied in the spring and again in the fall, following the product’s instructions.
Oleanders planted in containers require more frequent fertilization. Apply the same fertilizer as for landscape plants every four weeks during the growing season.
Planting Instructions
Plant oleander in early spring while the shrub is still dormant or in late summer or early fall after it stops blooming. Dig a hole two or three times as wide and exactly as tall as the nursery container. Amend the soil with compost or organic matter if needed for good drainage. Remove the oleander from its container and position it so it sits at precisely the same height in the soil as it did in the container. The base of the main stem should be at soil level, not below.
Fill the hole halfway with the amended soil and add water. Wait a few minutes and fill the hole the rest of the way with soil. Keep the leaves dry as you water the base of the plant again.
Pruning
Remember to wear protective clothing and gloves when handling this plant. The best time to prune oleanders is during late winter just before new growth occurs (February through March). Oleanders bloom in summer on new growth. Pinch tips of young stems to prevent them from becoming leggy and also to encourage branching. Prune out any damaged or diseased limbs.
Propagation
Oleander can be propagated by stem cuttings or seed.
Cuttings
Oleander is easy to propagate with stem cuttings. Choose several 10- to 12-inch semi-ripe wood cuttings from a plant stem or from material you have pruned off the shrub. Old woody growth doesn’t root well. Make the cut just below a leaf node and remove the foliage from the bottom half of the cutting, leaving a few leaves at the top. Also, remove any flower heads. Dip the bottom of each cutting in rooting hormone and put it in a pot filled with good-quality potting soil, firming the soil around the stem. Water the pot and cover it and the cutting with a clear plastic bag. Keep the pot in a warm, bright place, watering as needed to keep the soil moist until the cutting roots, as evidenced by new growth or resistance to a slight tug on one of the leaves. Remove the plastic bag and move the pot into an area that receives partial sunlight to continue the rooting process.
Seeds
Harvest the seed pod of a mature oleander when it turns brown and dries out, but before it pops open and spills its seeds. Fill a small pot with moistened seed-starting mix and press a seed into the planting medium, but don’t cover it with soil. Cover the pot with plastic wrap and put it in a warm area at about 68°F and under grow lights. Mist the soil occasionally to keep it moist. Germination takes a while—one to three months. Remove the plastic wrap when the seeds sprout. In a few weeks, the root system will be robust, and you can move the seedlings to a larger pot or outside if you live in a warm area where oleander is hardy.
Potting and Repotting
In many parts of the country, oleander can’t survive the winter temperatures. In climates where oleander isn’t hardy, it can be planted in containers that are moved inside when the weather turns cold. Select a large container with good drainage and a small or medium-sized oleander. Fill the container with potting soil or garden soil amended with compost or other organic matter, and plant the shrub so the stem base is at soil level. Water the shrub and position it in a sunny spot for the warm months.
Although Oleander plants in the garden are drought-tolerant, those in containers need to be watered regularly and fertilized every two weeks during the blooming period with a granular or liquid balanced fertilizer, following the product directions.
As winter approaches, move the container into a cool, sheltered area, such as a garage or basement, where it is protected from freezing temperatures. Cut the plant back by one-third to make it easier to manage. In the spring, move the container back out to the garden gradually, leaving it for a couple of hours the first day and then increasing the time a little each day.
Although oleander can be repotted if needed, cutting it back by one-third each year should keep it a manageable size.
Overwintering
Before winter weather arrives, cut the bush back generously by about two-thirds. If the plant is established in the ground, gingerly dig around the roots to lift the plant out of the ground. Pot the plant in good potting soil. Care for Oleander in pots by bringing the containers indoors. Place the pots in an area that is sheltered but still receives full sun such as a porch or a garage with a window. Keep it out of reach of children or pets.
Pests and Diseases
Oleander leaves contain latex and extracts from the plant can make a strong insecticide. For this reason, plants are resistant to deer and rarely have severe issues with diseases or pests. They are especially resistant to verticillium wilt. Even so, keep an eye out for aphids, mealybugs, and scale.
The most damaging pests are oleander caterpillars. Mature caterpillars can move up the walls of adjacent buildings and reproduce near the eaves. Remove cocoons to manage the next generation, which could eat all the plant’s foliage in a week or two.
III. Uses and Benefits
Oleander is a vigorous grower in warm subtropical regions, where it is extensively used as an ornamental plant in parks, along roadsides and in private gardens. It is most commonly grown in its natural shrub form, but can be trained into a small tree with a single trunk. Hardy versions like white, red and pink oleander will tolerate occasional light frost down to −10 °C (14 °F), though the leaves may be damaged.
The toxicity of oleander renders it deer-resistant and its large size makes for a good windbreak – as such it is frequently planted as a hedge along property lines and in agricultural settings.
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