Sage (Salvia)

Perennial salvia, a member of the mint family, is a bewitching herbaceous plant that blooms for a long period of time in a wide spectrum of colors. Salvias are also a great nectar source; so, if you plant them, expect pollinators (especially hummingbirds) to pay your garden a visit.

Common name	Sage, Salvia
Botanical name	Salvia
Family	Lamiaceae
Origin	Worldwide
Life cycle	Annual
Plant type	Annual
Hardiness zone	5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10
Sunlight	Full Sun
Maintenance	Low
Soil condition	High Organic Matter
Drainage	Well-Drained
Spacing	12 in. – 3 ft.
Flowering period	Fall
Height	1 ft. – 3 ft.
Width	1 ft. – 3 ft.
Flower color	Pink
Leaf color	Green
Fruit type	Schizocarp
Leaf benefit	Edible
Flower benefit	Edible
Garden style	Butterfly Garden

I. Appearance and Characteristics

Salvia is the largest genus of plants in the sage family Lamiaceae, with nearly 1000 species of shrubs, herbaceous perennials, and annuals. Within the Lamiaceae, Salvia is part of the tribe Mentheae within the subfamily Nepetoideae. One of several genera commonly referred to as sage, it includes two widely used herbs, Salvia officinalis (common sage, or just “sage”) and Salvia rosmarinus (rosemary, formerly Rosmarinus officinalis).

The genus is distributed throughout the Old World and the Americas (over 900 total species), with three distinct regions of diversity: Central America and South America (approximately 600 species); Central Asia and the Mediterranean (250 species); Eastern Asia (90 species).

Salvia species include annual, biennial, or perennial herbaceous plants, along with woody subshrubs. The stems are typically angled like other members in Lamiaceae. The leaves are typically entire, but sometimes toothed or pinnately divided. The flowering stems bear small bracts, dissimilar to the basal leaves—in some species the bracts are ornamental and showy.

The flowers are produced in racemes or panicles, and generally produce a showy display with flower colors ranging from blue to red, with white and yellow less common. The calyx is normally tubular or bell shaped, without bearded throats, and divided into two parts or lips, the upper lip entire or three-toothed, the lower two-cleft. The corollas are often claw shaped and are two-lipped. The upper lip is usually entire or three-toothed. The lower lip typically has two lobes. The stamens are reduced to two short structures with anthers two-celled, the upper cell fertile, and the lower imperfect. The flower styles are two-cleft. The fruits are smooth ovoid or oblong nutlets and in many species they have a mucilaginous coating.

Many members of Salvia have trichomes (hairs) growing on the leaves, stems and flowers, which help to reduce water loss in some species. Sometimes the hairs are glandular and secrete volatile oils that typically give a distinct aroma to the plant. When the hairs are rubbed or brushed, some of the oil-bearing cells are ruptured, releasing the oil. This often results in the plant being unattractive to grazing animals and some insects.

II. How to Grow and Care

Sunlight

Salvias grow best in full sun and will put on their best floral show with at least 6 to 8 hours of sun each day. Anything less than full sun causes the plant to stretch and become floppy.

Temperature and Humidity

Temperature requirements will vary slightly among different species, but most perennial salvias are happy in hot summer weather and hardy to -10 or -20 degrees Fahrenheit. They also prefer a dry climate and could develop root rot and powdery mildew issues in humid conditions—especially if not given ample air circulation.

Watering

Salvia is a very drought tolerant plant. If there is regular rainfall or irrigation, you will not have to provide additional water. Typically, this would be one inch of moisture a week. Excessive watering can cause root rot or disease. It is best to water Slavia in the morning, trying to avoid getting the foliage wet. Saturate the soil around the base of the plant allowing the soil to completely dry out in between waterings. A layer of mulch around the base of the plant can help to retain moisture during the hot summer months.

Soil

Salvia plants don’t need rich soil, but they must have good drainage. If your soil is heavy, plant “proud”, or slightly higher than the surrounding grade. In pots, a mixture of ordinary garden soil mixed with perlite allows water to drain rapidly. Whether in the garden or in a pot, a mulch of wood chips or small, rough-edged rock is highly recommended to not only protect the roots, but to help keep the soil temperature and moisture consistent.

Fertilizing

Most Salvias are light feeders, meaning that they do not require fertilizing throughout the season. A light application of a balanced fertilizer or compost in the spring can encourage growth and more blooms. Salvia plants that get too much fertilizer, or are planted in too rich of a soil, can become leggy and flop over. Mulching around the base of the plant can add additional nutrients as the mulch decomposes.

Planting Instructions

In most hardiness zones, salvia seeds can be sown directly in the ground in early to mid spring (after the danger of frost has passed). Choose a site with full sun and loosen the soil about a foot deep to accommodate the plant’s eventual root system. Spread the seeds over the top of the soil and cover them just slightly as the seeds need light to germinate. Water until the soil is evenly moist.

Salvia plants can be placed in the ground in spring or fall in most zones. To plant a seedling or nursery grown plant, dig a hole twice the diameter, but approximately the same depth as the plant’s container. If you are planting more than one salvia, space them 1 to 3 feet apart (depending on the growth habits of the variety you choose). Once they are planted, water thoroughly until the soil is evenly moist.

Pruning

If left to grow on its own, Salvia will most likely bloom two times throughout the growing season. If you would like your Salvia plant to continuously bloom, then you will want to prune the plant throughout the season. Deadheading, removing the spent flowers, encourages reblooming. Some varieties of Sage can develop woody lower stems. These stems can be cut off if you wish. As the cold weather season approaches, many Salvia plants are cut down to the ground to overwinter.

Propagation

Salvia can easily be grown from seed, but if you have a hybrid, you may need to propagate from cuttings to create a similar plant. In early spring, when new growth is emerging, cut a stem about 4 to 8 inches long just below a node where leaves sprout from the stem. Remove any leaves from the bottom few inches of the stem and place the cutting in a glass of water (about 2 inches deep). Keep the cutting in an area with dappled or filtered light and add water as needed until it begins to grow roots. Once the roots are at least 3/4 inch long, you can transplant the cutting to a container or the ground.

Perennial salvias can also be dug up and divided to make more plants. This is best done in early spring right when plants emerge—just be careful not to damage tender new growth.

Overwintering

Salvia will go dormant during the cold months and need very little care over the winter. You can leave the plant alone and it will go to seed. This will provide food for birds during the winter. Or, you can prune the plant prior to the first frost to prepare for the winter months. Cut the stalks just above the basal foliage. Remove any dead plant material that you notice. Mulch around the base of the plant to protect the roots. The biggest concern over the winter will be the plant getting too much moisture from snow.

Potting and Repotting

Salvia works as a great thriller for containers kept on sunny patios or porches. Choose a pot with excellent drainage that is at least 8 to 10 inches in diameter. Depending on the growth habit of your chosen salvia, a container that size should be sufficient for 1 to 2 years. Use a basic potting soil mixed 50/50 with compost (ideally with an end pH between 5.5 and 6.5). Water your salvia only when the topsoil feels dry, if your area lacks rainfall, or if the weather is particularly hot.

When it is time to repot your salvia, prepare a larger pot with fresh soil and tamp the soil down leaving a hole approximately the same size as the plant’s previous pot (you can use the old pot as a mold). Gently ease the plant from its old pot and place it in the hole of the new pot. Avoid disturbing the root system as much as possible as that can lead to transplant shock. Water your plants thoroughly after transplanting and keep them sheltered from the wind and harsh sun for a few days as they acclimate to the new container.

Pests and Diseases

Perennial salvia is a resilient plant, but not without issues when it comes to pests and diseases. Powdery mildew and root rot are common—especially in humid climates. Botrytis can also occur if plants are placed too close together. To avoid these issues, allow the soil to dry out between waterings and make sure all your salvia plants have ample air circulation.

While deer and rabbits tend to avoid salvia, aphids, Japanese beetles, and caterpillars are known to visit. Try to catch them early and spray them off with a garden hose or—with caterpillars—remove them by hand.

III. Uses and Benefits

Salvias (also known as sages) are popular garden plants because they flower for an extended period and do well in hot, dry conditions. They provide an incredible variety of fragrance, bloom, plant habit, and color. Salvias have brilliantly colored flowers, square stems, and attractive, often scented foliage.

As some of the best summer-blooming annuals and perennials, salvias can be used for mass plantings, borders, containers, accents, and cut flowers. One benefit of growing salvias is their appeal to hummingbirds, butterflies, and other pollinators.

IV. Perennial Salvia Companion Plants

• Golden Marguerite

Golden marguerite, also known as golden chamomile, is a vigorous perennial that produces a cloud of yellow daisies on feathery gray-green foliage. Like perennial salvia, it is a sun-loving plant that prefers about 6 hours of exposure a day. Golden marguerite plants spread quickly, so it is recommended that you divide them every two years or so. After their first flush of bloom, they can get rangy looking, so cut them back by about half to keep them neat and to encourage further bloom.

• Shasta Daisy

Shasta daisies are easy to care for once established and can be grown in full sun (like perennial salvia) or partial shade. The sturdy stems of the Shasta daisy and long vase life make the flowers unbeatable for cutting. Shasta daisies also thrive in well-drained, not overly rich soil, but taller cultivars may need staking.

• Daylily

Daylilies are so easy to grow you’ll often find them in ditches and fields, and as escapees from gardens. And yet they look so delicate, producing glorious trumpet-shaped blooms (some fragrant) in myriad colors. In fact, there are some 50,000 named hybrid daylily cultivars in a range of flower sizes (the minis are very popular), forms, and plant heights. The flowers are borne on leafless stems and although each bloom lasts but a single day, superior cultivars carry numerous buds on each scape so bloom time is long, especially if you deadhead daily. Depending on the cultivar, the strappy foliage of the daylily may be evergreen or deciduous.

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