This gorgeous variety of camellia (Camellia sasanqua) flowers earlier than some of its cousins, sometimes as early as September – bringing a welcome splash of colour to the garden in autumn and early winter.
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Camellia sasanqua, with common name sasanqua camellia, is a species of Camellia native to southern Japan (Kyushu, Ryukyu Islands and Shikoku). It is usually found growing up to an altitude of 900 m (3,000 ft).
Growing to 5 m (16 ft) tall, this evergreen shrub has leaves that are broad elliptic, 3–7 cm long and 1.2 –3 cm broad, with finely serrated margins. The flowers are 5–7 cm in diameter, with 5–8 white to dark pink petals.
A camellia offers masses of blooms into the cooler months, a naturally neat growth habit, and is a strikingly handsome plant even when not in flower, with glossy deep-green foliage.

Part of the beauty of the sasanqua camellia is its diversity. Despite technically being the same species, there can be vast variations in size and form. They’ll all have similar flower and foliage forms, but sizes range from a petite 50cm all the way through to some species that, with age, can reach over 5m.
The camellia’s growth habits also vary, from a neat upright bun, to spreading forms, to almost columnar shapes. This means you can find a sasanqua in a size and form to suit almost any need.
The camellia’s flowering display is nothing short of spectacular. It’s not unusual to see plants so covered in blooms that they all but conceal the foliage. The flowers are generally quite simple—a flattened layer of petals with a distinctive central boss of stamens. In some varieties the petals may be more ruffled, or double layer.
Common name | Sasanqua Camellia |
Botanical name | Camellia sasanqua |
Family | Theaceae |
Species | sasanqua |
Origin | Japan |
Life cycle | Woody |
Plant type | Perennial |
Hardiness zone | 7, 8, 2009 |
Sunlight | Full Sun |
Maintenance | Low |
Soil condition | Clay |
Soil ph | Acid |
Drainage | Well-Drained |
Growth rate | Fast |
Spacing | 6 – ft. – 12 ft. |
Harvest time | Fall |
Flowering period | Fall |
Height | 6 ft. – 14 ft. |
Width | 6 ft. – 14 ft. |
Flower color | Cream, Tan |
Leaf color | Brown, Copper |
Stem color | Purple, Lavender |
Fruit type | Capsule |
Leaf benefit | Long-lasting |
Flower benefit | Fragrant |
Garden style | Asian Garden |
Uses | Container |
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
This densely branched, tree-like, evergreen shrub needs time in the sun to bloom. At least six hours a day will aid in nurturing the blossoms. But if placed in an area that does not get partial shade, the flowers will experience sunburn.

ai3310X
CC BY 2.0
Temperature and Humidity
Camellias are reliably hardy in USDA hardiness zones 7 to 9, although some, especially the hybrids, are known to be hardy in zone 6. Gardeners in colder climates can increase the chances of their camellias surviving the winter by carefully selecting a permanent planting site in the landscape. A northern-facing location has an advantage over a warmer south-facing location.
South-facing locations can cause the plant to break dormancy too early, resulting in the loss of flowers to frost damage. A north-facing site combined with a building, hedge, or fence that acts as a windbreak gives cold-climate gardeners the best rate of success.
Watering
Sasanqua camellia likes water, so its soil should remain moist. The water demand is high in the first growing season to establish an extensive root system, so water every one to two days. Arid soil and dry air flower buds are developing and can result in fewer flowers and petals. In autumn and winter, water twice a month or so to ensure the soil is not dry. You may reduce the frequency of watering once the plant is established.
Soil
For a broadleaf evergreen such as Sasanqua camillia, well drained soil with clay, loam and sand work well.

ai3310X
CC BY 2.0
Fertilizing
There is no need to fertilize this variety of camellia in the spring. In summer, slow-release nitrogenous fertilizer can be applied once during the stem and leaf growth period to make leaves greener. Phosphate-potassium fertilizer can be applied one to two times from the time of bud appearance to blooming.
Planting Instructions
For the best results, improve the soil at planting time by following these steps:
- Dig the hole at least twice as wide as the pot and a little deeper.
- Blend a composted manure, such as cow manure, through the soil.
- Allocate around half a bag per plant, with half of this (one quarter of a bag) being mixed into the soil and the other half being used as top dressing once planted. Spread the allocated manure on the surface, along with a quality controlled-release fertilizer that’s balanced for camellias.
- Water thoroughly, then apply a layer of mulch at least 5 cm thick, avoiding pushing against stems before watering again.
- Taller plants may require staking. Add the stakes at planting time and use at least two stakes.
- Whippy plants—those with a tall, single central shoot—will often benefit from having this central shoot trimmed by a few centimeters, as this will encourage side branching and bushiness.
Pruning
Younger plants should be regularly tip pruned to encourage bushiness. The longer-term habit of density is created by this pruning while young. After flowering, lightly trim the plant to bring on a new growth flush and to further develop density.
Hedges can be pruned as required, but remember that pruning any later than spring or early summer may mean you are removing next season’s flower buds. Sasanquas can tolerate extremely heavy renovation pruning if required, so if you have an older plant that is looking lacklustre, don’t be afraid to prune it back hard.
Propagation
- Growing camellias from seeds
The sasanqua will often readily produce seed if given the opportunity, but this is not generally seen, as pruning post-flowering removes the spent flowers that would develop into seed capsules.
If you do locate some seed, it can be sown into a quality propagating mix and kept moist in a warm location. You’ll find they germinate quite readily. The resulting plants will likely have very different flower colors and forms to the parent plant.

ai3310X
CC BY 2.0
- Growing camellias from cuttings
The easiest and most reliable cuttings for the home gardener are semi-hardwood, taken in early to mid summer. Take new growth as the color of the bark starts to change from green to brown. Dip the end into a cutting gel and then pop into a pot of propagating mix. Keep warm and moist as the shoots develop.
Potting and Repotting
Many Camellias are large shrubs with deep taproots that don’t lend themselves to container culture. However, smaller cultivars are sometimes grown as potted plants in large, wide, heavy containers filled with a good moisture-retentive potting mix. When transplanting a potted nursery plant into a patio container, sever off the taproot, which will cause the plant to develop a wider, more fibrous root system. Make sure the container has adequate drainage holes because camellias do not tolerate wet feet.2
Potted camellias are heavy feeders that will gradually deplete their potting mix, so they should be repotted every three years or so. Prune the roots by an inch or two, then repot the plant into a larger container with additional fresh potting soil.
Overwintering
Camellia is an evergreen shrub that blooms in the winter in the South, where the winters are mild. If you are growing camellia in a container and you live in a cooler climate, protect the soil and root system from freezing. Dry leaves and pine straw are an excellent source of insulation; mound them up and around the container, fully covering the container and soil. If you live in a colder climate, such as zone 7 or lower, keep the pot covered until spring. If you expect extreme cold or a prolonged cold snap, protect the plant by building a burlap or canvas fence around the container. Fill the space with leaves.
Pests and Diseases
If there are concave yellow spots on the leaf surfaces, white, cotton-like patches on the leaf backs, or pink nodules on the branches, it is likely caused by scale insects. Scale insects often flourish thanks to poor ventilation.

jam343
CC BY 2.0
Twig blight can make the branches of the camellia necrotic and turn leaves from green to pale yellow. Leaves gradually become dry and start falling off from the top until finally, whole branches shrivel and die. Timely pruning of withered flowers and old, weak branches after blooming can effectively reduce the incidence of this disease.
If there are rust spots on the petals, the plant may be infected with Camellia petal blight. The infected flowers should be cut off immediately to avoid the spread of pathogens. If a diseased flower falls on the soil, remove it along with the surrounding soil and lay down some new soil.
III. How to Get to Bloom

TANAKA Juuyoh (田中十洋)
CC BY 2.0
The flowering period for camellias differs depending on the cultivar, but most bloom for several weeks sometime in the period from fall to mid-spring. These plants are prized for their blossoms and long bloom period, so it is a great disappointment when they don’t bloom as expected. Failure to bloom is usually traced to one of these causes:
- Improper pruning: Pruning too late in the season might remove the flower buds that provide the winter/spring blossoms. If you prune these plants at all, it should be done immediately after the flowers fade, which allows time for new wood to form that provides the next season’s blossoms.
- Cold damage to flower buds: An unseasonable frost that occurs as flower buds form can kill the buds and eliminate or reduce flowering for that season. The plant will usually recover nicely and return to its standard bloom pattern next season.
- Lack of nutrients: Poor soil does not promote good flowering until the plants are adequately fed with fertilizer, usually three feedings per growing season.
- Too much fertilizer: Excessive feeding can cause camellias to focus on green growth at the expense of flowers. If soil is already quite rich and heavy in organic material, too much additional fertilizer can actually cause reduced flowering.
- Soil not acidic enough: Camellias are acid-loving plants, and they might refuse to flower if grown in alkaline soil. Amending the soil to acidify it or feeding the plant with an acidifying fertilizer might be necessary if the soil is too alkaline.
- Too much shade: Camellias prefer partial shade, but they might be shy about flowering if grown in dense shade.
- Drought stress: Camellias like consistently moist soil. If threatened by dry conditions, they might conserve energy by withholding flowers.
IV. Uses and Benefits

strollers
CC BY-SA 2.0
The camellia used to be commonly planted as an individual feature plant, often in the center of the lawn in its own bed. Today it is used in all manner of situations, including:
- feature planting
- hedges, screens and “garden room” dividers
- backdrops for garden beds
- formal gardens
- large pots and tubs.