The evergreen- topped lavender shrubs’ flowers bloom in spring and summer, attracting bees and butterflies. They do well in landscaping or in pots. The flowers and leaves are fragrant and can be used for potpourri and essential oil. Interestingly, they also find use in insecticides.
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Lavandula stoechas, the Spanish lavender or topped lavender (U.S.) or French lavender (U.K.), is a species of flowering plant in the family Lamiaceae, occurring natively in several Mediterranean countries, including France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Turkey and Greece.
It is an evergreen shrub that usually grows to between 30 and 100 cm tall and occasionally up to 2 m (6.5 ft) tall in the subspecies L. stoechas subsp. luisieri. Its leaves are 1–4 cm long, grayish and tomentose. The inflorescence is crowned by a mass of purple elongated ovoid bracts about 5 cm long. Lower flowers form a tight rectangle in cross-section. The upper of the five teeth has a wrong-heart-shaped appendage. The crown is blackish-violet, up to 8 mm long and indistinct two-lipped.
The flowers, which appear in late spring and early summer, are pink to purple, produced on spikes 2 cm long at the top of slender, leafless stems 10–30 cm (4–12 in) long; each flower is subtended by a bract 4–8 mm long. At the top of the spike are a number of much larger, sterile bracts (no flowers between them), 10–50 mm long and bright lavender purple (rarely white). It blooms in spring and early summer, from the month of March in its native habitat, depending on the climate in which it grows.
The Latin specific epithet stoechas comes from the Greek stoichas meaning “in rows”. It is also the Greek name for this species.
This species is more tender than common lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), being less frost-resistant, but harsher and more resinous in its oils. Like other lavenders, it is associated with hot, dry, sunny conditions in alkaline soils. However, it tolerates a range of situations, though it may be short-lived. Hardy down to −10 °C (14 °F) (USDA zones 8–10).
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Like other lavender varieties, Spanish lavender requires full sun to thrive and produce its fragrant blooms.
Temperature and Humidity
Spanish lavender is native to the Mediterranean and does well in hot, dry climates. It thrives in zones 8a to 9b and is a better choice for warmer temperature zones than other popular lavender varieties. However, it’s not as cold-hardy as other varieties of lavender and must stay in a zone where winter temperatures do not drop below 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit.
Watering
Similar to other lavender varieties, Spanish lavender does not require much water and can withstand periods of drought. However, the best growing conditions involve slightly moist soil, so water these plants before the soil dries out completely. To avoid problems with fungal diseases, it is best to water at soil level to avoid getting the leaves wet.
Soil
Spanish lavender needs sandy, gravely, well-draining soil to grow healthy and lush. These plants prefer slightly moist soil, but any standing water or slow-draining soil will spell disaster for Spanish lavender. If your soil is composed of clay, be sure to amend it with sand, gravel, peat moss, or coconut coir before planting this herb.
Fertilizing
Spanish lavender is native to areas with sandy, poor-quality soil and prefers soil that is low in nutrients. Because of this, Spanish lavender does not require fertilizer and often does best without it.
Pruning
Like other lavender varieties, pruning twice a year will encourage Spanish lavender to branch, creating a denser, thicker plant. However, care must be taken to avoid over-pruning these plants. To properly prune lavender, simply trim away around one-third of the plant’s growth after its first flush of flowers. This is also the perfect time to harvest those sweet-smelling flower buds. Then, prune about one-third of the plant’s growth again after the second flush of blooms fades to prepare the plant for fall.
Although individual plants will grow substantially in width as they mature, Spanish lavender does not spread through root extension, so you don’t need to worry about aggressive growth.
Propagation
Propagating Spanish lavender through cuttings is easy and rewarding. You will need a pair of disinfected, sharp garden snips, a small pot, well-draining soil, a plastic bag, and a rubber band. Then follow these instructions:
- Take cuttings in the spring or fall. Snip where the new growth meets the old and aim to remove a cutting that does not have any flowers.
- Remove all the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
- Gently plant the stripped end into well-draining dirt. Keep the soil level to just below where the leaves start.
- Place a clear plastic bag loosely over the cutting to keep in moisture. Secure it around the pot with a rubber band.
- Keep the soil moist until the plant is established. Check for roots by gently tugging on the cutting. When there is resistance, roots have formed. Remove the plastic bag once this occurs.
- Alternatively, you can place your cuttings in a glass of water until roots appear. Be sure the water does not soak the leaves. Once healthy roots form, plant the cutting in soil.
How to Grow from Seed
Spanish lavender can also be grown from seed. Spanish lavender seeds have the best outcome when started indoors. Here is how to do it:
- Sow the seeds into well-draining soil in small pots and cover them lightly.
- Keep the seeds in a cool place. Regularly check the soil, making sure to keep the soil moist.
- Germination should occur in about two weeks.
- Keep the seedlings in a sunny location.
- When seedlings are big enough to handle, transfer them to their own pots or plant in the garden in the spring.
Potting and Repotting
Spanish lavender grows very well in containers. When choosing a container, be sure it has multiple drainage holes and drains water freely. Because a potted plant does not have access to underground water sources, potted lavender will need to be watered more often than lavender planted in the garden. Water deeply and infrequently when the soil feels dry.
These plants often need to be repotted yearly. To do this, gently tip the pot onto its side and tap around the outside of the pot. This will loosen the root system. Gently slide the lavender out and place it in its new pot. Fill the pot with sandy, well-draining soil and place it in a sunny location.
Overwintering
Spanish Lavender is sensitive to frost and, if kept out in the open, can survive winter in very mild regions with good protection. To do this, it should be well rooted and must reach a certain size. It is also important that the soil is very permeable and does not get wet in winter. Use fleece or dry sticks to protect it from the cold and winter sun. During winter, young Spanish Lavender and potted plants must be kept in a bright place at forty-one to fifty Fahrenheit in the house. Frost-free, unheated rooms such as cold winter gardens, attics or bright storage rooms are well suited for this.
During winters Lavender requires very little water, but the soil should not dry out completely. Starting from February, the plant can slowly get used to warmer temperatures. After winter, between February and March, the plant should be trimmed back a bit and repotted to stimulate budding and flowering.
Pests and Diseases
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Spanish lavender does not struggle with many pests or diseases. Whiteflies and aphids may be attracted to the plant. A blast of water or use of insecticidal soap, such as neem oil, can reduce these infestations. However, the plant is more prone to spittlebugs. This pest is not fatal to lavender though it leaves frothy waste on plants. Spray the bugs off the plants using a garden hose. No pesticide is necessary for this minimally invasive garden pest.
Lavender may be prone to fungal diseases, such as the air-borne shab (Phomopsis lavandulae), which may be rare but something to watch for. Lavender shoots will begin to wilt and die and there’s no cure but to dig up and dispose of the affected plants. Lavender can also develop soil-borne Phytophthora, which causes root and stem rot. Another fungal disease, septoria leaf spot, can be handled with fungicides.
Common Problems
Spanish lavender is rather hardy and does not often struggle with many pests or other problems. However, foliage issues can be caused by subpar soil or moisture conditions. Here’s what to look for.
- Yellowing, Browning, or Drooping Leaves
These signs can be an indication of root rot. Because Spanish lavender needs well-draining soil and minimal moisture, it is susceptible to developing root rot in overly wet conditions. If you suspect that a plant has root rot, cut back on watering. Remove any organic material, such as fallen leaves, around the plant. Then gently dig up the plant to inspect the roots. Remove any rotting roots with a clean pair of snips, then plant the lavender in an area with well-draining soil and full sunshine. Be sure to give the plant adequate airflow.
- Leggy, Yellow Foliage, and Few Flowers
This is a sign of too much nitrogen and is often caused by giving the plant too much fertilizer. If this is the case, stop fertilizing. Then remove the lavender from the rich soil. Either amend the soil with sand and gravel or move the lavender to a pot. Prune around one-third of the leggy growth in the spring or fall to help the lavender regain its compact shape.
III. Uses and Benefits
Since the Spanish Lavender is not a winter hardy plant, it should be planted as a container or balcony plant. If planted in the garden, it adorns herb beds, Bed edging plants, Rock garden, Slopes or foreground shrub beds in combination with gypsophila, asters, or stonecrops where it acts as a bee pasture and attracts busy insects in large flocks. Spanish Lavender enhances a bouquet of flowers with its aroma. The flowers and stems of the lavender can be used in dried form for scented sachets and potpourris or for flavoring and decorating dishes, just the way you would use an English Lavender. The best time to harvest is right before blossoming.
