Spring means that park centers are full of people and luggage is full of cars full of plants. They all had kneeling ground, dirt under their nails and hoping for gardening. To ensure that this excitement leads to positive results, we discuss the basics in this article with tips on planting in spring.
Installing a new factory and growing it successfully is not difficult or as complex as some people might think. Is it as easy as digging a hole and placing plants? Yes, of course you can. I will not start preparing the bed because I learned from other articles available at http://www.freeplants.com
Let’s start with the facilities of the B&B. B&B is an abbreviation for balers in the canyon. Carefully inspect the ball on the plant you are buying. Does the excavator wrap the cable around the ball to secure installation? If so, you should at least cut the rope and put it in the bottom of the hole or remove it completely. Wrap the stem of the plant carefully around the point where it emerges from the root ball, because excavators often wrap the rope around the stem several times when tying the ball. This is very important because if the rope is made of nylon it will not rot and will kill and kill plants in two or three years.
If B & B plants are kept in kindergarten for a long time, they must be burned again if the soil begins to rot before the plants are sold. If the plant you bought has been destroyed again, there may be nylon veins between the two layers of the bladder. Therefore, examine the stem carefully. Because the nylon rope is removed from the stems of the plant, the rope is harmless around the rest of the ball and you don’t need to take it off.
Is the root ball wrapped in a real bladder or an imitation of a plastic bladder that cannot be biodegradable?
Real radishes rot quickly underground and should not be disturbed before planting. If you are not sure or suspect that a skirt that resembles a pod does not need to be removed entirely, you should loosen it around the trunk of the plant and cut a few vertical slices around the circumference of the ball.
This is the critical part. Which soil are you growing?
If your soil is made of heavy clay, I highly recommend lifting at least 8 inches with a nice, rich top layer. If for some reason you cannot do this, install plants with at least 2 or more root balls on the existing stage and roll the soil over the root balls. Remember that plants grown this way can dry out in the summer. However, if you plant it in the same place as the soil in heavy clay, the roots may be too moist in other seasons.
“Experts” suggest that when planting in clay, dig a hole wider and deeper than the root ball and fill it with loose organic material around and below the plant. That sounds like a really good idea, right? Some of these experts also recommend digging a very deep hole and placing a few inches of gravel in the ground for drainage. Where do you think this water will “flow”?
Keep in mind that most B&B plants grow on well-drained soil. This means that the soil in the root ball is porous and water can easily pass through it. And now, if you like, imagine a 15 inch diameter root ball placed in a 30 inch diameter hole. There is free organic matter around and under this root ball. In this root ball there is porous soil. Now Mother Nature comes together with pour. Water is everywhere and will not seep into this solid clay, so it flows through the top of the earth and looks for the lowest point.
When it reaches our newly planted tree, surrounded by loose organic matter, it penetrates until the planting hole is completely filled with water. (Do you remember my article about removing puddles and French drainage systems?) With this planting technique, we actually created French drainage around our poor little factory that could not stand its roots without oxygen for a long time. Because the bottom of this hole is made of clay, although we add gravel to drainage, the water can’t go anywhere, and this plant will suffer and will most likely die.
If you cannot increase the planting with soil and planting in clay, I recommend placing the root ball at least 2 inches above the soil surface and filling the ball with soil that you removed when digging a hole. Filling up the clay removed from you is actually like building a dam so that no excess water penetrates the ball of the tree you just planted. Plants will not flourish in this poor soil, but at least will have a chance of survival.
Once again, the best thing to do is to raise the bed with good, rich topsoil to keep your plants healthy and happy.
Whatever floor you have, be careful not to plant too deep. They should not be planted deeper than planted in a nursery. Planting too deep is a common problem and thousands of plants are killed every year by gardeners who do not understand how important planting is.
Betting on newly planted trees is always a good idea. If your new tree sways during the wind, it is very difficult to take root in the existing land. Stabilize the tree with a stake. You can use wooden poles, fence posts, or for small trees. I often use 1/2-inch electromagnetic tubes available at every hardware store.
You can stick the wood to the tree trunk with a ribbon. After about six months or a year, the sun dries the adhesive on the tape and falls. Check the tape to make sure it has fallen. You don’t want to record that tree.
Plants in containers are much easier. Follow the planting depth rules explained above. Before carefully removing plants from the container, check the drainage holes at the bottom of the container to find out which roots can grow from the hole. If so, cut it so that it is not difficult to remove plants from the container.
The easiest way to remove plants from a container is to put your hand in the container, turn it over completely, and shake it gently. Plants must slide into your hands.
Check the root mass while holding it in your hand. When plants grow in containers for a long time, roots sometimes begin to grow in a circular pattern around the root mass. This is not a good thing and you must break this root before planting so you can break this round pattern.
You can take a knife and actually make three vertical slices from the top of the root mass down. It stimulates new roots that grow in your garden soil. Or you can take your fingers and loosen the roots that surround the root mass and press it before planting.
What about fertilizer, bone meal, peat moss and all the other additives they are trying to sell at the center of the garden?
Raise your plant bedding with a nice, rich top coat and forget about additives. Be careful with fertilizers, they can be more dangerous than good. I planted my house 14 years ago and haven’t fertilized it yet, and I have no intention of doing it. You look great
As for bone meal and all other soil additives, don’t get too involved with these things. What I do know for sure is that they will make your wallet thinner, but I don’t think you will see a difference in your plants. Over the years I have created several hundred homes with fantastic results and have not added this additive to my plant bed.
Did I mention planting in good and rich topsoil? That is the secret!