The Secret of Rooting Cuttings


The secret of root cuttings can be summarized in two words. “Time and Technology”.

When you make cuttings, each part is as important as the way you make it. So if you do it right at the right time this year, your efforts will surely bring success. With this article you will learn both.

“The root cuttings of a tree change leaves to plant change leaves”

Wood cuttings are far more durable than soft wood cuttings, which is why hard wood is the best technique for home gardeners. Deciduous plants are plants that lose their leaves in winter. All plants sleep in winter, but green plants are always green. Many people do not consider rhododendrons, azaleas and green mountain victories, but they are. They are known as green deciduous plants. Every plant that actually loses its leaves is a deciduous plant.

There are three different techniques for rooting cuttings from deciduous plants. Two methods for cutting wood and one for cutting soft wood. This article only discusses root cutting using the hard wood method.

Of the two hardwood techniques, is one better than the other? Depending on what exactly you are rooting, what the soil conditions are in your home and what is the nature of the mother who grew up for the coming winter.

I have experienced successes and failures with each method. Only experimenting will determine what is best for you. Try several cuttings with each method.

If you make pieces of wood from deciduous plants, you must wait until the parent plant is completely asleep. This only happens when you experience good hard frost, where the temperature drops below 32 ° F for several hours. Here, in northeast Ohio, this usually happens in mid-November.

Unlike the softwood cuttings of deciduous plants, where you only take the top cuttings from the tips of the branches, this rule does not apply to hardwood cuttings from deciduous plants. For example, plants like Forsythia can grow up to four feet in a season. In this case, you can utilize all the growth of the current years to make hardwood pieces.

You might be able to get six or eight cuttings from one branch. The wine is very energetic. A vine can grow up to ten feet or more in one season. The whole vine can be used for hard wood cuttings. Of course there is a considerable gap between the buds in the grapes, so the cuttings must be much longer than most other deciduous plants. The average length of a piece of hard wood wine is about 12 inches and there are still only 3 or 4 buds. The distance between the buds is much narrower in most other deciduous plants, so the cuttings are only about 6 to 8 inches.

Cutting wood is very easy. Simply gather a few branches (known as stems) from the parent plant. Cut these stems into pieces about 6 inches long. Of course, this stick does not have leaves because the plant is sleeping, but if you look more closely at the stick, you will see a small deviation on the stick. These lumps are acne compounds. They are leaf buds or knots for the following year, as they are often called.

The Secret of Rooting Cuttings

When cutting hardwood from deciduous plants, it is best to make a cut at the bottom or the end of the cut just below the knot and at the top of the cut about 3/4 inch above the knot. This technique has two objectives. One makes it easier for you to distinguish the upper part of the wound from the lower part of the wound if you handle it. This also helps cut two different ways. Each time you cut the plant over the knot, the stems that remain above the knot die back to the top node. So, if you leave the stick 1/2 inch below the bottom node, it will still die. It is not a good idea to find this area under dead wood. It’s just a place where insects and disease are hidden.

Also helps slightly injure the plant when trying to force it to take root. If the plant is injured, it develops mud in the wound as protection. This accumulation is needed before the roots develop. By trimming just below the knot at the bottom of the wound, the plant develops red and finally its roots.

An incision at the top of the mill 3/4 inch above the knot is made so that the 3/4 inch handle section above the knot protects the top knot. This prevents the shoots from being damaged or beaten during processing and planting. You can press the pieces together without damaging the bud.

If the roots are rooted in this way, this will help make an incision at the top of the cut at an angle. This removes water from the wound tip and reduces the chance of disease. After you make all the cuttings, dip the bottom of the cuttings in the root mixture. Make sure you have the correct root thickness (available at most garden stores) for hardwood pieces. Arrange so that the ends of the buttocks are flat and tied together.

Choose a place in your garden where the sun shines. Dig a hole about 30 cm and is big enough to accommodate all the clippings. Place the bundle of inverted pieces in the hole. The back end of the cuttings must be above. The back end of the cuttings should be about 6 inches below the surface. Cover the cuttings completely with soil and mark the area with a pole so that you can find it again in spring.

I know that sounds crazy, but this is how rooting cuttings work. To increase your chances of success, you can cover the back edge of the cuttings with wet peat moss before filling the hole. Make sure you wet the peat moss well, and then wrap it around the back of the cuttings.

In winter the cuttings develop red and may have some roots. If you place it upside down in a hole, the tip of the bulb is closest to the surface so it can be warmed by the sun, creating favorable conditions for root development. Standing upside down also inhibits growth above. Leave them alone until around mid-spring after the risk of ice ends.


In winter the buds begin to develop and are quite soft when you dig. Frost can cause significant damage if you dig and plant it too early. Therefore, it is best to keep them buried until the risk of the ice ends.

Dig them very carefully so as not to damage it. Cut the hole and examine the tip of the buttocks. Let’s hope you see a bad cluster. Even if there is no dead end, keep planting it. You don’t need a stretch of sand or something special when planting cuttings. Just place it in a sunny place in your garden. Of course, the area you choose must be well drained and have a nice and rich top layer.

To plant cuttings, just dig a very narrow trench or make a disk with a shovel by digging in the soil. Place the cuttings in the trench with the butt end down. Bury about half of the wound and leave some shoots in the ground. Fill the cuttings with loose soil and make sure there are no air bags. Lightly crush them and then pour them freely to remove the air pockets.

Water regularly, but don’t let the soil get damp so that it rot. Cuttings will come out in a few weeks. Some will most likely collapse because there are not enough roots to support the plant. The rest will develop roots when they come out. In autumn, the cuttings obtained must be well rooted. You can move it after sleeping or wait until spring. If you wait until spring, make sure you transplant before you stop sleeping.

Actually there is no exact knowledge about rooting cuttings, so now I will introduce variants of the above method. This method is still applied to woody cuttings of deciduous plants. With this option, you do everything exactly as you did with the method you just learned until you bury it for winter.

Method number two doesn’t bury it at all. Instead, plant cuttings immediately after they are made in late fall or at any time in winter when the soil is not frozen. In other words, you can simply skip the steps to bury the cuttings underground for the winter. Plant in the same way as described for method number one. Like all cuttings, treatment with a root mixture before planting helps encourage root growth.

Woody cuttings work well for most leafy shrubs. However, they might not be suitable for some varieties of more sophisticated leaf decoration elements, such as crying cherries or other ornamental trees. Ornamental tree root roots are possible, but only with the help of softwood cutting techniques.

Now let’s discuss the cuttings of green plants using hardwood techniques.

Cutting of evergreen plants is usually done after two strong frosts in late autumn, around mid-November. However, I got good results with some plants that produce them in mid-September and take advantage of the heat of the autumn sun. If you do this early, they must be watered every day.

Try some initial cuts and if the results are bad, do a few more in November. Pieces of wood from many green plants can be made from coarse sand at home in a simple frame.

To make such a frame, just make a square or rectangular frame with 2 “6” boards. Mount all four corners like a large picture frame. This frame must be placed on the floor in a well-drained area. Areas with penumbra are preferred.

After you make a frame, get rid of weeds or grass in the frame so that vegetation does not grow through your parent beds. Fill this frame with very coarse sand. Sand used in pond filters usually works. Mason sand is a bit too fine. If you have a sand and gravel park near you, visit a construction site and check the pile of sand. Find a class that is somewhat rougher than a brick pair. But keep in mind that most of the sand works. Just choose what you think is pretty rough. If the water passes easily, it’s already quite rough.

Be sure to place your frame in a location where water can flow through the sand and out of the frame. In other words, don’t choose a wet area for your cutting mat. Standing water will certainly greatly affect your results.

Making green cuttings is always easy. Simply trim pieces 4 to 5 inches from the mother plant. Just making cuttings. (Only one cut from each branch.) Remove the needle or leaf from the bottom up to two-thirds of the cut. Green cuttings are usually not needed, because removing the leaves or needles causes enough injury to accumulate and develop roots.

Dip the cut ends in powder or a mixture of liquid roots and glue 3/4 “to 1” in the sand. Let them stay wet throughout the fall to cool temperatures. If you have several warm and dry days in winter, be sure to water your cuttings. Remember that the sand in the raised bed dries very quickly. Don’t worry about snow. The snow covering your cuttings is fine, it really makes it moist and protects it from the harsh winter winds. Start to flush again in spring and throughout summer. You don’t need a lot of water, but make sure they don’t dry and at the same time make sure they don’t get wet.

The method of rooting cuttings from evergreen plants actually works very well, but it takes time. You must leave them in the frame for a period of twelve months. You can leave them longer if you want. Leaving them until next spring will be fine. You need to develop more roots in winter.

Rooting the following plant cuttings is very easy with this method. Various varieties of Euonymus, Taxus, Juniper, Arborvitae, Japanese Holi, Boxwood, and British Holi. Rhododendrons and azaleas prefer to warm their land before taking root.


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