Wild daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus) is a perennial flower that grows from bulbs. It is a common ornamental plant, famous for its pale-yellow flowers with a bright-yellow central trumpet. In the wild, Narcissus pseudonarcissus can be found in forests, grasslands, and rocky terrains. Its bulbs and leaves are poisonous when ingested.
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Narcissus pseudonarcissus, commonly named the wild daffodil or Lent lily (Welsh: Cennin Pedr), is a perennial flowering plant.
This species has pale yellow tepals, with a darker central trumpet. The long, narrow leaves are slightly greyish green in colour and rise from the base of the stem. The plant grows from a bulb. The flowers produce seeds which, when germinated, take five to seven years to produce a flowering plant. (Sexual seed reproduction mixes the traits of both parent flowers, so if garden hybrid cultivars are planted close to wild populations of Narcissus pseudonarcissus, there is a danger that the new seedlings, having hybrid vigour, could out-compete the wild plants.)
Like all Narcissus species, daffodils contain the alkaloid poison lycorine, mostly in the bulb, but also in the leaves. Because of this, daffodil bulbs and leaves should never be eaten.
The species is native to Western Europe from Spain and Portugal east to Germany and north to England and Wales. It is commonly grown in gardens and populations have become established in the Balkans, Australia, New Zealand, the Caucasus, Madeira, British Columbia, Ontario, Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, Oregon, Washington state, much of the eastern United States, and the Falkland Islands. Wild plants grow in woods, grassland and on rocky ground. In Britain native populations have decreased substantially since the 19th century due to intensification of agriculture, clearance of woodland and uprooting of the bulbs for use in gardens. In Germany it was a subject of a national awareness campaign for the protection of wildflowers in 1981.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Wild daffodil grows vigorously in sunny places. Insufficient light may cause excessive leaf growth. However, the plants can adapt to slightly shaded environments, such as under deciduous trees. Some varieties in the Cyclamineus and Triandrus groups are particularly suitable for moist and shaded environments.
Temperature
Most varieties of wild daffodil are hardy and can overwinter in hardiness zones 8-10. Wild daffodil needs 6-8 weeks of temperatures below 5 ℃ in winter to successfully complete flower initiation and flower. The best temperature for growth is 12 to 18 ℃, and for flowering about 20 ℃. Wild daffodil doesn’t have a high demand for water and can adapt well to both dry and humid climates.
Watering
Wild daffodil has relatively low water requirements. When planting in your garden, it is usually enough to water them just once immediately after planting unless the weather is very dry during the growth period in spring. Wild daffodil planted in a pot should be watered more often to avoid dry soil, especially during the leaf growth and flowering periods. After the leaves wither in summer, wild daffodil enters its dormancy period. Avoid watering at this time to protect the bulbs from rotting. You can resume watering in autumn and winter when the soil is dry.
Soil
Wild daffodil prefers fertile, loose, well-drained, and slightly acidic or neutral soil. The suitable soil pH range is 6-7. It cannot be planted in clay soil with poor drainage, as accumulated water will cause the bulb to rot and fail to bloom. Add coarse sand and humus to improve the soil structure and ensure good drainage can avoid it.
Fertilizing
Wild daffodil doesn’t need much fertilizer. You can mix some bulb food or bone meal into the soil when planting in the fall. Water-soluble compound fertilizers can be applied when the plant begins to grow leaves and before flowering in spring. The ratio of the three main elements (Nï¼…-P2O5ï¼…-K2Oï¼…) can be 5-10-10 for leaf growth and 0-10-10 for the flowering period. You can top dress Potassium fertilizer once after flowering, as this is beneficial to bulb rejuvenation.
Planting Instructions
You can buy bulbs for planting in the fall. plant wild daffodil at night, ideally when the temperature is below 10 ℃. Too high a temperature may cause new leaves to sprout prematurely. If the temperature drops, the new leaves will suffer frost damage.
When planting in your garden, choose a well-ventilated place to dig a pit. You can add some compost to the bottom of the pit, and then insert the bulb, taking care to face the tip upward. Gently cover with soil, press firmly, and water it well. The planting depth is generally 3-4 times the bulb height, and the spacing is twice the bulb diameter.
When planting in a flower pot, choose a pot that is 5 times wider than the diameter of the bulb. The bottom of the pot must also have drainage holes. If it is a large container, it is best to put a 3 cm layer of thick, coarse sand or broken brick at the bottom to help with drainage. The planting depth can be slightly shallower than planting on the ground, and at least 2.5 cm of soil under each bulb is required. plant spacing can be slightly denser than planting directly in your garden. After planting, you can mulch the soil surface with a layer of gravel, which helps to retain moisture and adds beauty.
Pruning
Remove withered flowers from wild daffodil promptly to prevent it from consuming nutrients during fruit growth. Retaining bulb nutrients this way prolongs the blooming time of other flowers. After flowering, do not cut off the leaves until they turn yellow and wither so that the leaves can photosynthesize for as long as possible and store nutrients for the bulbs. This is conducive to the following year’s rebloom.
Propagation
You can buy bulbs directly from a garden center for planting. Wild daffodil is a perennial bulb. Baby bulbs will form around any parent bulbs that have been growing for many years. You can use these small bulbs to propagate. In the autumn, dig out the bulbs, cut off the small bulbs, and replant them in your garden or flower pots using the original planting method. After growing for 2-3 years, the plant can bloom again.
Pests and Diseases
Deer and rodents do not eat the bulbs since they are toxic. The most serious daffodil pest is the narcissus bulb fly. An adult fly resembles a small bumblebee. The female lays eggs on the leaves and necks of bulbs. When eggs hatch, young grubs eat their way into bulbs. Check bulbs before planting and destroy any grubs. Planting at the recommended depth will reduce infestations. The narcissus bulb fly is only one of the pests that impact daffodils. Other pests include bulb mites which are more likely to attack daffodils growing indoors, and nematodes, which, when found in the soil, means transplanting to a new location might be necessary.
One disease that affects daffodils is bulb rot, which occurs when planting flowers in soggy or poorly draining soil. Other types of rot and blight are present in daffodil plants when improper water, sunlight, or soil nutrients impacts the flower’s health.
III. Uses and Benefits
Wild daffodil is a widely popular compact perennial that is perfect for cottage and naturalistic gardens. Its dense leaf growth coupled with a tall and bright flower make the wild daffodil lovely as a border for a flowerbed or even as a specimen piece. They are usually grown in groups to make the biggest visual impact possible, though they also look great alongside rhododendrons, lilies, roses, and a variety of other flowers.
IV. Harvesting and Storage
Wild daffodil is very beautiful. When the flower buds are enlarged and the outer petals have just softened but not yet fully opened, you can cut them to enjoy in a vase. Use sharp garden shears to cut from the base of the flower stem and promptly put it in a vase filled with 2/3 clean water to avoid water loss. The vase life of these flowers is 7-15 days. If you want to extend their display period as much as possible, you can add some cut flower food and change the water every 3 days.
