Apricot (Prunus armeniaca)

Apricot Tree ( Prunus armeniaca ), also known as Armenian Plum, is a delightful addition to any garden, offering beautiful spring blossoms and delicious, sweet fruit. These versatile trees, belonging to the Rosaceae family, provide not only aesthetic appeal but also a bountiful harvest. In this comprehensive guide, Gardencenterpoint.com will explore everything you need to know about growing, caring for, and enjoying apricot trees. We’ll cover various aspects, from selecting the right variety to tackling common diseases and even provide you with where you can find the best apricot saplings for sale. Keep reading to unlock the secrets to successfully cultivating these rewarding fruit trees.

This guide will serve as your ultimate resource, helping you navigate the journey of growing fruit tree, from initial planting to enjoying the juicy fruits of your labor. We’ll delve into crucial elements such as how to grow apricot trees successfully and provide essential care tips.

Understanding Apricot Trees: A Comprehensive Overview

Apricot trees, native to parts of Asia, have been cultivated for thousands of years. Their journey across the globe has led to a wide array of varieties, each adapted to different climates and offering unique fruit characteristics. Understanding the basics of apricot tree botany, growth habits, and common varieties is the first step to successful cultivation.

Feature	Description
Botanical Name	Prunus armeniaca
Common Names	Apricot, Armenian Plum
Family	Rosaceae
Native Region	Parts of Asia (China, Central Asia)
Tree Size	Typically 15-25 feet tall and wide, but can be pruned to smaller sizes. Dwarf varieties are also available.
Growth Habit	Deciduous (loses leaves in winter), with a rounded or spreading canopy.
Bloom Time	Early spring (usually before leaves emerge).
Flower Color	White to pink.
Fruit	Drupe (stone fruit) with a velvety skin, ranging in color from yellow to orange, often with a red blush. Flesh is typically sweet and slightly tart.
Pollination	Most varieties are self-fertile, meaning they can produce fruit with their own pollen. However, planting multiple varieties can often increase yields.
Chill Hours	A period of cold temperatures (typically between 32°F and 45°F) required for proper dormancy and fruit production. Requirements vary by variety, ranging from 200 to over 1000 hours.
USDA Hardiness Zones	Generally zones 5-8, but some varieties are adapted to colder or warmer climates.
Sunlight requirements	Full Sun(At least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day)
Soil requirements	Well-drained soil. Apricots do not tolerate waterlogged conditions.
Water requirements	Regular watering, especially during dry periods. However, avoid overwatering.
Fertilizer requirements	Balanced fertilizer in early spring. Soil testing is recommended to determine specific nutrient needs.
Pruning requirements	Annual pruning to maintain shape, remove dead or diseased wood, and improve air circulation.

Choosing the right apricot variety is crucial for success. Consider your local climate, chill hour requirements, and desired fruit characteristics. Some popular and reliable varieties include:

• ‘Blenheim’ (Royal): A classic California variety known for its rich flavor and suitability for canning and drying. Requires around 400 chill hours.
• ‘Tilton’: Another popular California variety, slightly more cold-hardy than ‘Blenheim’ and with a slightly tarter flavor. Requires around 600 chill hours.
• ‘Moorpark’: An old English variety known for its large, flavorful fruit. Requires around 600 chill hours.
• ‘Goldcot’: A cold-hardy variety that can tolerate colder climates. Requires around 800 chill hours.
• ‘Harcot’: Known for its disease resistance and reliable fruit production. Requires around 800 chill hours.
• ‘Tomcot’: An early-ripening variety with large, flavorful fruit. Requires around 700 chill hours.

Gardencenterpoint.com recommends consulting your local extension office or a reputable nursery to determine the best varieties for your specific region.

Planting Your Apricot Tree: A Step-by-Step Guide

Planting your apricot tree correctly is the foundation for its long-term health and productivity. Following these steps will give your tree the best possible start.

1. Timing: The best time to plant bare-root apricot trees is in late winter or early spring, while the tree is still dormant. Container-grown trees can be planted any time of year, as long as the ground isn’t frozen, but spring and fall are generally preferred.
2. Site Selection: Choose a location that receives full sun (at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day) and has well-drained soil. Apricot trees do not tolerate waterlogged conditions, which can lead to root rot. Avoid planting in low-lying areas where cold air tends to collect, as late frosts can damage blossoms.
3. Soil Preparation: Before planting, amend the soil with compost or other organic matter to improve drainage and fertility. A soil test can help determine if any additional amendments are needed. Apricot trees prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH (6.0-7.5).
4. Planting Hole: Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. This allows the roots to spread easily.
5. Bare-Root Trees: If planting a bare-root tree, soak the roots in water for 2-4 hours before planting. Gently spread the roots out in the planting hole.
6. Container-Grown Trees: If planting a container-grown tree, gently remove it from the container, being careful not to damage the roots. Loosen any circling roots before placing the tree in the hole.
7. Planting Depth: Plant the tree at the same depth it was growing in the nursery or container. The graft union (the point where the scion and rootstock are joined) should be 2-4 inches above the soil line.
8. Backfilling: Fill the hole with the amended soil, gently tamping it down to remove air pockets.
9. Watering: Water the tree thoroughly after planting.
10. Mulching: Apply a 2-4 inch layer of organic mulch (such as wood chips or shredded bark) around the base of the tree, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk. Mulch helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
11. Staking (if necessary): Young trees, especially in windy areas, may benefit from staking for the first year or two. Use soft ties to avoid damaging the bark.

Caring for Your Apricot Tree: Essential Practices

Once your apricot tree is planted, ongoing care is crucial for its health, productivity, and longevity. This includes watering, fertilizing, pruning, protecting from pests and diseases, and preparing for winter.

Watering:

• Newly Planted Trees: Water deeply and regularly, especially during the first growing season. Aim to keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged.
• Established Trees: Once established, apricot trees are relatively drought-tolerant. However, they will benefit from supplemental watering during dry periods, especially during fruit development. Water deeply and less frequently, rather than shallowly and frequently.
• Watering Techniques: Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are ideal for delivering water directly to the roots and minimizing water waste. Avoid overhead watering, which can promote fungal diseases.

Fertilizing:

• Soil Testing: A soil test is the best way to determine your tree’s specific nutrient needs.
• General Recommendations: In the absence of a soil test, apply a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) in early spring, before new growth begins. Follow the package instructions for application rates.
• Young Trees: Avoid over-fertilizing young trees, as this can promote excessive vegetative growth at the expense of fruit production.
• Mature Trees: Mature trees may benefit from additional nitrogen fertilizer after fruit set, but avoid over-fertilizing, which can lead to soft, disease-prone growth.

Pruning:

• Purpose: Pruning is essential for maintaining tree shape, removing dead or diseased wood, improving air circulation, and promoting fruit production.
• Timing: The best time to prune apricot trees is in late winter or early spring, while the tree is still dormant.
• Techniques:
  • Open Center System: This is the most common pruning method for apricot trees. It involves removing the central leader (the main vertical stem) to create an open, vase-shaped canopy. This allows for better sunlight penetration and air circulation.
  • Thinning Cuts: Remove entire branches back to their point of origin to reduce crowding and improve air circulation.
  • Heading Cuts: Shorten branches to encourage lateral growth and fruit production.
  • Remove Dead, Damaged, or Diseased Wood: Prune out any wood that is dead, damaged, or showing signs of disease.
  • Remove crossing Branches.
• Tools: Use sharp, clean pruning tools to make clean cuts. Sterilize your tools between cuts to prevent the spread of disease.

Pest and Disease Management:

Apricot trees can be susceptible to a number of pests and diseases. Regular monitoring and preventative measures are key to minimizing problems.

• Common Pests:
  • Aphids: Small, soft-bodied insects that suck sap from leaves and can cause distortion. Control with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.
  • Peach Twig Borer: Larvae bore into shoots and fruit, causing damage. Control with pheromone traps and insecticides if necessary.
  • Codling Moth: Larvae bore into fruit, causing significant damage. Control with pheromone traps, insecticide sprays, and good sanitation practices (removing fallen fruit).
  • Spider Mites: Tiny mites that feed on leaves, causing stippling and bronzing. Control with horticultural oil or miticides.
• Common Diseases:
  • Brown Rot: A fungal disease that affects blossoms, twigs, and fruit. Control with fungicide sprays and good sanitation practices (removing infected fruit and twigs).
  • Shot Hole Disease: A fungal disease that causes small, round holes in leaves. Control with fungicide sprays and good air circulation.
  • Bacterial Canker: A bacterial disease that causes cankers (sunken lesions) on branches and trunks. Control with pruning out infected wood and copper-based sprays.
  • Eutypa Dieback: A fungal disease that causes wilting and dieback of branches. Control with pruning out infected wood and avoiding pruning during wet weather.
• Integrated Pest Management (IPM): IPM is a holistic approach to pest and disease management that emphasizes prevention, monitoring, and the use of least-toxic control methods.

Winter Protection:

• Cold Hardiness: Choose apricot varieties that are appropriate for your climate’s cold hardiness zone.
• Young Trees: Protect young trees from winter injury by wrapping the trunk with burlap or tree wrap.
• Late Frosts: If a late frost is predicted after the tree has started to bloom, you can try to protect the blossoms by covering the tree with a sheet or blanket.

Harvesting and Enjoying Your Apricots

The culmination of your efforts is the harvest of delicious, homegrown apricots. Knowing when and how to harvest your fruit will ensure you enjoy them at their peak flavor and quality.

• Ripeness Indicators:
  • Color: Apricots typically turn from green to yellow or orange when ripe. Many varieties also develop a red blush.
  • Texture: Ripe apricots will be slightly soft to the touch, but not mushy.
  • Aroma: Ripe apricots have a sweet, fragrant aroma.
  • Taste: The ultimate test of ripeness is to taste one. Ripe apricots will be sweet and juicy.
• Harvesting Technique: Gently twist or pull the fruit from the branch. Avoid squeezing or bruising the fruit.
• Storage:
  • Room Temperature: Ripe apricots can be stored at room temperature for a few days.
  • Refrigeration: To extend the shelf life, store ripe apricots in the refrigerator for up to a week.
  • Freezing: Apricots can be frozen for longer-term storage. Wash, pit, and slice the apricots before freezing. You can also freeze them whole.
• Uses:
• Fresh Eating
• Canning
• Drying
• Jams and Jellies
• Baking (pies, cobblers, tarts)
• Smoothies
• Salads

Troubleshooting Common Apricot Tree Problems

Even with the best care, apricot trees can sometimes experience problems. Here are some common issues and how to address them:

• Lack of Fruit:
  • Insufficient Chill Hours: If your tree doesn’t receive enough chill hours, it may not produce fruit. Choose a variety that is appropriate for your climate.
  • Poor Pollination: While most apricot varieties are self-fertile, planting multiple varieties can improve pollination and fruit set.
  • Late Frost: A late frost can damage blossoms and prevent fruit development.
  • Nutrient Deficiencies: A soil test can help identify any nutrient deficiencies that may be affecting fruit production.
  • Over-Pruning: Excessive pruning can remove too much fruiting wood.
  • Lack of sunlight.
  • Pests or disease.
• Yellowing Leaves:
  • Nutrient Deficiencies: Yellowing leaves can be a sign of nutrient deficiencies, particularly iron or nitrogen. A soil test can help diagnose the problem.
  • Overwatering: Waterlogged soil can lead to root rot and yellowing leaves.
  • Pest or Disease: Some pests and diseases can cause yellowing leaves.
• Fruit Drop:
  • Natural Thinning: Apricot trees often naturally drop some fruit early in the season. This is normal and helps the tree conserve resources for the remaining fruit.
  • Stress: Stress from drought, heat, or nutrient deficiencies can cause fruit drop.
  • Pest or Disease: Some pests and diseases can cause fruit drop.
• Split Pits:
  • Irregular Watering: Fluctuations in soil moisture, especially during fruit development, can cause split pits.
  • Variety: Some varieties are more prone to split pits than others.
• Gummosis
• Sap oozing from the trunk or branches.
• Causes: Bacterial canker, fungal infections, insect damage, physical injury, environmental stress.
• Solutions: Identify and address the underlying cause. Prune out infected wood. Improve tree health through proper watering, fertilizing, and pest/disease management.

Advanced Apricot Tree Techniques

Once you’ve mastered the basics of apricot tree care, you can explore some more advanced techniques to enhance your success.

• Grafting: Grafting is a technique that involves joining two different plants together so that they grow as one. This can be used to propagate desirable varieties, combine different varieties on one tree, or adapt a variety to a different rootstock. There are different methods:
  • Whip and Tongue Grafting: A common method for grafting young trees.
  • Cleft Grafting: Used for grafting onto larger branches.
  • Bud Grafting: A method that uses a single bud from the desired variety.
• Espalier: Espalier is a technique of training trees to grow flat against a wall or fence. This can be a great way to save space and create a beautiful focal point in the garden.
• High-Density Planting: High-density planting involves planting trees closer together than usual to maximize fruit production in a small space. This requires careful planning and pruning.
• Rootstock Selection: Different rootstocks can influence tree size, disease resistance, and adaptability to different soil types. Choosing the right rootstock is an important consideration when planting an apricot tree.