Common fig ‘Chicago Hardy’ is distinct for its hardiness and purple-skinned fruit. A cultivar of Ficus carica, its name refers to its ability to even withstand Chicago winters. The stems may die back in cold conditions, but new stems will sprout in spring and produce sweet fruit in late summer.
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Noted for its cold-hardiness, Ficus carica ‘Chicago Hardy’ (Fig) is a large deciduous shrub or small tree with a spreading crown clothed in large, leathery, deeply lobed leaves. Insignificant flowers form inside a hollow receptacle in spring that, when mature, enlarges and becomes fleshy. It becomes an edible, medium-sized fruit, at first green, but deep purple when ripe. As surprising as it may be, we actually eat the bloom, which is hidden inside the receptacle that encloses the flower. Prized for its impressively sweet, rich flavor, the fig is luscious with strawberry-colored flesh.
The fruit ripens in late summer or fall on new wood. As the figs mature, you’ll need to harvest them daily by clipping them from their stems. This plant is self-fertile and does not need cross-pollination. Chicago Hardy fig can be grown as a single-trunk tree or as a multi-branched shrub. Plant it for foliage interest, fruit, and as a conversation piece.
Chicago Hardy’ is considered to be hardier than the reigning favorites, Celeste and Turkey Brown. Its stems are hardy to 10ºF (-12ºC) and the roots are hardy to 20ºF (-6ºC). Though it may die back to the ground in the colder ends of its range, it resprouts from the roots and will still bear sweet edible figs in the fall.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Full sun with at least six to eight hours of direct sun per day is the benchmark so the tree can thrive. While it can grow in less than ideal light conditions, that will diminish the yield. Partial shade is only acceptable in warm climates, provided that the tree still gets the required amount of direct sunlight.
Temperature and Humidity
The tree tolerates a wide temperature spectrum. Like all figs, it is heat-tolerant but it is also extremely cold-hardy—the stems to 10 degrees Fahrenheit and the roots to minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
High humidity is usually not an issue, as long as proper pruning ensures that there is adequate airflow in the canopy.
Watering
When placed in the planting hole, your young trees need water regularly for the first growing season. Keep the soil moist but prevent it from getting soggy. Established trees are drought tolerant but not for too long.
When you notice the blackened fruit on the tree, which is very warm, we recommend watering often, or you might end up with fruit that does not have the sweetness you desire. The root system does not enjoy standing water when grown indoors or outside.
Too much water makes fruit bland, and you will not have those delicious figs to look forward to.
Soil
Whether grown in a pot or the ground, your Chicago hardy fig tree needs a loamy fertile well-draining soil filled with organic matter.
It thrives in acidic to neutral soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. It can tolerate some saltiness from road salt and coastal areas but not directly at the shorefront.
To help retain soil moisture, add some mulch around the tree’s base without touching the trunk.
Fertilizing
When planted in rich soil amended with plenty of organic matter, one annual application of a balanced 5-5-5 slow-release fertilizer in the early spring is generally enough. However, if the foliage is turning chlorotic and yellow, a second fertilizer application might be needed in mid-summer. Do not fertilize the tree in the fall as it approaches dormancy, or in the winter.
Planting Instructions
The most important thing to consider planting your hardy Chicago fig is your microclimate. The best time to plant your fig trees is early spring or late fall. You do this during the dormancy period.
If you live in colder climates, it helps to provide your tree with some shelter to protect them from winter winds and freezing temperatures. The fig tree grows a low canopy with a one-foot clearance from the ground.
Another benefit is planting them under powerlines as they grow up to ten feet tall. Unfortunately, the Chicago hardy fig tree has spreading roots that grow shallow and can cause damage to infrastructures.
Thus, it is essential to check where your utility lines are when growing your tree. If you have no option, it can be container grown. Or place your Chicago hardy fig tree in a raised bed, which can limit the growth.
Most importantly, dig a hole a bit deeper than the height of the container you received it in. Then work in some organic compost before placing the tree in the hole. Place your tree to sit slightly below the soil surface level.
Pruning
How to prune Chicago Hardy fig depends on your climate, and whether you grow your plant as a shrub or a tree. If you live in a cold climate and overwinter the plant indoors, keeping it small makes it more manageable.
Regardless of the pruning method, wear gardening gloves, as the tree’s sap may irritate the skin.
For an in-ground plant in warmer climates, letting it grow with multiple trunks is the natural growth habit and the preferable option because it yields more fruit. But if space is an issue, you can grow it as a tree with a single trunk, usually the way it is sold as potted plants by nurseries.
Prune in January or February while the tree is still dormant. Trim any branches that stand in the way of good airflow in the canopy, as well as any old, grey, and dead or diseased branches. But never remove more than a third of the tree at once.
In a warm climate you might find some blackened fruit on the tree in the spring. These usually off-tasting figs, which are produced on the previous year’s wood, are called breba. Remove them like commercial growers do, which conserves the plant’s energy and leads to a better main crop from the new wood in the fall.
Propagation
A fast method to propagate your Chicago fig to produce fruit more is using tip cuttings. Gather your pruners, a deep pot with moistened potting soil, a plastic bag, and a half-gallon clear plastic bottle with the bottom removed.
- When you notice new growth in early spring, cut some healthy tips about eight inches long below a leaf node.
- Take rooting hormone, dip the cut end into it, and then insert it in the prepared soil below the leaf node line.
- Place the plastic bag or your plastic bottle dome over the pot to create a greenhouse.
- Keep it in bright indirect light in a warm spot.
- Ensure that the soil moisture is damp but not soggy.
- Then wait until your seedling produces new leaves with roots before transplanting it into a larger pot or the garden
Potting and Repotting
A container the same size or slightly larger than the nursery container is usually adequate. When selecting a material, keep in mind that the container can get quite heavy and that you need to move it indoors for the winter. Fill the container with well-draining potting mix and make sure it has large drainage holes.
When the tree roots fill the container, or grow out of the drainage holes, repot the plant in a larger container.
Overwintering
For outdoor plants, apply a thick layer of mulch around the root zone in the fall. Another way to protect the roots is a plant blanket or frost bag. If your plant dies back to the ground in a cold winter, not all is lost—it often regrows from the roots in the spring. That’s why protecting them is crucial.
Container plants should be moved indoors when the leaves start to fall. Don’t wait until the first killing frost. The plant does not need light during its dormancy period. You can store it in an unheated garage, shed, or basement. However, you do need to check the soil moisture on a regular basis. Water it lightly when the top 2 to 3 inches feel dry to the touch, just enough so that the roots don’t dry out, taking care not to drench it.
Pests and Diseases
While it is a hardy fig tree, it can still become the home of critters and diseases. Some notable growing problems are yellow leaves and the results from underwatering. The same can happen when you overwater your tree, as the fruit tastes bland.
The twigs can die in colder regions, but the established gray wood can survive, while younger woods might not. The biggest concern is birds that want to enjoy the fruit before you do. Using bird netting can help, or even hanging reflective tape to old CDs helps.
Other common pests are scale, mealybugs, aphids, spider mites, and nematodes to watch out for. The Chicago hardy fig can survive most diseases but can do seasonal damage if not treated.
Keep an eye on leaf spots like Alternaria and Septoria, and Anthracnose, both a spot, and blight. Another fungal disease is rust, and copper-based fungicide helps resolve these problems.
III. Uses and Benefits
If you would like to grow your own figs, Chicago Hardy fig is a good choice for several reasons. As its names indicates, is it very hardy, looks attractive in the landscape, it fits even in small spaces, and it is suitable for container-growing.
IV. Harvesting and Storage
The main rule of fig harvesting is that you should wait until they are ripe because figs do not ripen off the tree. And be gentle picking them, as figs are delicate.
Chicago Hardy figs are ready to harvest when they are a deep purple or brown, slightly soft to the touch. Overripe figs are very soft. Use pruners to cut the figs off the stems.
