Gardening questions and answers
How to test soil magnesium levels
This question was answered by the garden council via e-mail last month. You mentioned that you need to do a soil test to find out your magnesium levels before adding Epsom salt to an outdoor plant. They said, “Without knowing your current magnesium levels, you should not apply Epsom salt at all to outside plants. Many areas have nearly toxic magnesium content in the soil, and more continuous additions lead to poisoning of plants and soil. “Very good, but how do you test magnesium levels?
Jim Truman, England
Hello Jim! Good question. Because most home soil test kits only test pH, nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus to determine calcium and magnesium levels, you need to take samples at your local soil testing laboratory. Each area has one, and the price is usually around $ 10. Fast and very precise.
Question no. 2:
We just moved into our house and the garden is full of weeds. We tried to remove it, we tried chemical and organic weed killers and we tried solarization. Are there other possibilities. It cannot accommodate them.
Brad Martin, Lismore, NSW Australia
Hello Brad! I can hear and understand your helplessness. There is nothing worse than fighting weeds. Unfortunately, the best advice I can give you is perseverance and try to mix your techniques a little more.
The problem with many chemical killers is that they do a great job of killing what’s out there. However, if you leave this area empty and do nothing else, new weeds and grass seeds can explode and take root in the form that is now clean and open.
You also have to realize that there are perennial and annual weeds, which means that weeds grow every season. The trick is to maintain it throughout the year. In one or two seasons, you will see a big reduction in the problem as you kill each weed’s growth cycle and start gaining an edge.
So I would suggest choosing a common weed control method. I like solarization because it is chemical free, but many people choose RoundUp or other systemic weed killers.
After killing everything, go back and add some corn gluten. I mention this in question # 6, see above if you haven’t read it.
Corn gluten is very good because it protects all new seeds from germination. Remember that this protects all seeds from germination. So if you plan to build a vegetable garden from seeds, this is a problem.
If this happens and you cannot make a temporary outlet, use a good layer of mulch (5.1 to 7.6 cm) to remove new weeds.
Stay here, you have the right idea and eventually your garden will look good.
Question no. 3:
What is heavy soil?
I want to make a water park. I went and bought papyrus plants. I was told to transplant plants and use “heavy soil” and water fertilizer. Can you tell me what “heavy soil” is? And what fertilizer can be used for fish in a pond?
Ramona Diorek, Honolulu, XI, USA
Hello Ramona! Good question. Soil is available in a variety of “textures”, which means there is sandy, loamy and soft soil which some people might call light, medium and heavy soil.
Heavy soil (like clay) is called because it contains more clay, is sticky and has less room for pornography, flows slowly and holds water and nutrients longer, making it more fertile than other soils. and is ideal for pond plants.
Medium soils (such as clay), which are considered ideal garden soils (not for marine plants, but for general horticulture) because they have a balanced ratio of three types of particles: clay, tulle and sand, which create a combination of large and small pore spaces that allow it has air for healthy root growth and flows well and loses nutrients only at moderate levels.
Finally, light soils (such as sandy soils) contain quite large and irregular particles and have large pore spaces between these particles, which give the soil plenty of air, which means that the loss of nutrients and water flows very quickly. Therefore plants in the sand must be watered and fed more often.
In your situation, you have to use heavy clay, and there is soil that is specifically packaged for aquatic plants. Ask about it. In pond situations, using the wrong type of soil can cause many problems. So start planting properly with the right soil.
Now just a few additional tips for you. One of the problems with water is that it can turn brown. This is because the bottom has come out of the pot, which can occur in strong winds if the pot explodes or falls at the bottom of the spill in the water, or the bottom is washed from the bottom of the pot. To avoid this problem, you can do the following:
- Use shorter and wider pots (sometimes referred to as “pans”) because they are less likely to swell than larger pots, especially if they are taller plants (eg some papyri). and make sure you put a few middle stones at the bottom to guard the bottom of the pot. The stones also add weight, which prevents the pot from falling in the wind.
- Align the pot with bubbles, a woven barrier or several layers of damp newspaper. After the bottom of the pots line up, add your soil and plants. This protects the floor from washing drainage holes in ponds. After the plants are glued together, soak the entire pot in a bucket large enough to cover the top of the pot for about 24 hours. In this way, loose soil can float in a bucket of water and not in your pond.
- When placing plants in a pond, make sure you slowly lower the pot into the water and not just dip it in the water. If you slowly lower the pot, the strength of the water is maintained so that the soil does not carry over from the pot into the water.
The last part of your question is about fertilizer. There are many ponds made especially for them, just ask for fertilizer for pond plants. It is safe for all aquatic life and does not make green water due to algal growth.
Question no. 4:
I have 5 pots with “terraces” growing in large pots on my balcony. All 5 plants have a “schrigely” brown mark, as you can see in the photo. Not all leaves have this scar. Even the last growth leaves on plants do not have this scar (though ??). Suggestions for this problem? Thank you very much.
Bob Coyne, Florida, USA
Hello Bob! First of all, thank you for sending photos with your questions. It’s always very useful to see exactly what you are talking about.
What you have is called Leafminers. They like to eat beans, beets, cabbage, cheese, lettuce, black pepper, tomatoes and other vegetables. also lots of ornaments, especially chrysanthemums and nasturtiums.
Tunnel larvae through leaf tissue and form carvings, mine winding. You can kill the seeds, but the good news is that larvae on older plants such as your tomato are more a cosmetic disorder and problem than a serious problem.
You can do several things:
- Selection and destruction of mined leaves.
- Remove the eggs that you can see at the bottom of the leaf as soon as it is seen in spring.
- You can also spray Mimba oil. Read more about neem oil.