Red Spider Lily (Lycoris radiata)

The red Spider lily is a bright summer flower that is prevalent throughout Asia. Though its appearance is cheerful, it is said to symbolize final goodbyes, and legend has it that it would often appear when two people parted forever. In addition, ancient Buddhist writings indicate that the Lycoris radiata was used to guide the dead through a cycle of rebirth.

Common name	Equinox Flower, Hurricane Lily, Naked Lily, Red Magic Lily, Red Spider Lily, Red Surprise Lily, Spider Lily
Botanical name	Lycoris radiata
Family	Amaryllidaceae
Species	radiata
Origin	China, Japan, Korea, and Nepal
Life cycle	Bulb
Plant type	Bulb
Hardiness zone	6, 7, 8, 9, 10
Sunlight	Full Sun
Maintenance	Low
Soil condition	High Organic Matter
Soil ph	Acid
Drainage	Well-Drained
Spacing	Less than 12 in.
Flowering period	Fall
Height	1 ft. – 2 ft.
Width	1 ft. – 2 ft.
Flower color	Burgundy, Red
Leaf color	Gray, Silver
Stem color	Green
Flower benefit	Good Cut
Garden style	Asian Garden
Uses	Container

I. Appearance and Characteristics

Lycoris radiata, known as the red spider lily, red magic lily, corpse flower, or equinox flower, is a plant in the amaryllis family, Amaryllidaceae, subfamily Amaryllidoideae. Originally from China, Japan, Korea and Nepal and from there to the United States and elsewhere. It is considered naturalized in Seychelles and in the Ryukyu Islands. It flowers in the late summer or autumn, often in response to heavy rainfall. The common name hurricane lily refers to this characteristic, as do other common names, such as resurrection lily; these may be used for the genus as a whole.

Lycoris radiata is a bulbous perennial with showy, bright-red flowers. When in full bloom, spindly stamens, likened to the image of spider legs, extend slightly upward and outward from the flower’s center. The flowers of the plant generally appear around late August to early September, before the leaves fully develop, on scapes rising 30–70 centimeters (12–28 in) from the ground. Four to six 2-inch long flowers, arranged in umbels, perch atop each plant stalk. Individual flowers are irregular, with narrow segments which curve backwards.

The leaves, which tend to emerge in October, are a grayish-green color, parallel-sided, 0.5–1 cm (1⁄4–3⁄8 in) wide and feature a paler central stripe. The plant retains its leaves throughout the winter season, but will begin to shed them away as temperatures start to warm in late spring.

Red Spider lily is poisonous to humans when ingested, but the severity of toxicity is low. All parts of the plant contain the toxic alkaloid lycorine, but the concentration is highest in the bulb, making it the most poisonous part to consume. If ingested, symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, shivering, and nausea may occur. The toxins must be leached from the plant before it is safe to consume. Red Spider lily has not been shown to cause irritation through direct contact with the skin, or toxicity through airborne allergy.

II. How to Grow and Care

Spider lilies are an easy choice for the garden. They lie dormant during spring and mid-summer, so no need to water them during that time. They don’t need to be pruned because the foliage dies back in spring before flowering begins.

Sunlight

Red spider lilies can grow in full sun to part shade. For best flowering, however, part shade is best. Also, in a partially shady location, it tends to bloom earlier than in the full sun.

Temperature and Humidity

Red spider lily is reliably hardy in zones 6 to 10, but in zones 6 and 7 it is best to protect the leaves and exposed bulbs from winter freezes with a layer of mulch. After its bloom, the red spider lily develops new leaves, which in warmer regions will be evergreen and persist throughout the winter until they die back in the spring. The plant will then go dormant until new growth begins in summer.

Watering

During the summer—when the plant is dormant—the red spider lily does best in dry soil. With its deep roots, this lily can tap into water reserves deep in the soil. Overwatering during the summer can lead to bulb rot.

Once the growing season has begun—which you can tell from the buds forming—the soil should be kept moderately moist but not saturated. In the absence of rain, water the plant as needed. In average soil, the standard “1 inch per week” rule is more than sufficient for this plant to flourish.

Soil

Spider lily prefers moist, well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Occasionally let the soil become dry. Do not let the bulbs sit in waterlogged soil or they may rot. Spider lilies can handle a variety of soils, including loamy and sandy, as well as pH that is acidic, alkaline, and neutral.

Fertilizing

Red Spider lily benefits best from early spring fertilization, just before the growing season. High nitrogen fertilizer is beneficial and will give your plant added nutrients for growth and flower production during summer and fall. Once blooming begins, you can add a fertilizer that is high in potassium and phosphorus to strengthen the root system and increase resilience for cooler weather ahead.

Planting Instructions

Planting bulbs of red Spider lily is relatively easy. Select a planting site with rich, well-drained soil, and full sun to partial shade. plant bulbs 15 to 30 cm apart. They should be planted as the top of the bulb or the pointed end is 6 mm above the soil. Water well after planting.

As red Spider lily has no foliage while in flower, they should be planted in dense clusters. It’s also common to plant a low ground cover beneath them such as Ivy, Creeping Thyme, or Creeping Phlox. They also look excellent mixed with other flowering perennials and will add a burst of color to beds after most flowers have finished for the season.

Pruning

It’s important to know when to prune the red spider lily. Though they do not really need any pruning, you may be tempted to clean up their appearance. Do not prune the flower when its foliage is yellowing. That is the time when the bulb is receiving nutrients to make its best blooms in the next year. Instead, wait until the foliage is completely withered and dried up before pruning.

Propagation

The red spider lily does not produce any seeds and is reproduced through bulbs. When spider lilies have developed large clumps or outgrown their space, you can carefully divide them and replant the bulbs in other locations. Do this in the summer when the plants are dormant. Depending on how many roots the bulbs have, they do not bloom the same year or the next until they are fully established. Here’s how:

• Water the bulbs to loosen the soil.
• Use a spade and gently dig up the bulbs.
• Separate the bulbs by pulling them apart.
• Replant the bulbs in suitable growing sites, spacing at least 6 inches apart, and water.

Potting and Repotting

If your local winter is too cold for red spider lilies in a perennial flower bed, you can grow them in containers filled with organically rich soil. The containers must be very large and deep to allow for expansive root growth. The plants won’t bloom if the container is too small. Plant the bulbs right side up (pointy end), so they are just sticking up through the soil, which will encourage flowering. Space bulbs 6 to 8 inches apart in a container as you would in the ground.

Overwintering

If you live in the coldest parts of the spider lily’s growing zones (zones 6 and 7), you should add a layer of mulch around your plants during the fall for overwintering to help protect the bulbs. If you’ve planted them in containers, simply bring them indoors to protect them during the winter, just make sure that they’re in an area where pets and small children can’t get into them due to their toxicity

Pests and Diseases

The red spider lily has no known pests or diseases. It is also deer-resistant. Just be careful not to overwater or it can develop bulb rot. The one thing this lily attracts is a lot of pollinators. Bees, butterflies, and birds flock to the red spider lily when it is in bloom.

Spider lilies have also very few issues when their soil, moisture, and light needs are met. However, they are not immune to growing problems.

• Leaves Turning Yellow

Usually, when you see your spider lily’s foliage turning yellow, it’s a sign that the bulb is heading into dormancy. This should occur in the springtime. If leaves are yellowing when the foliage should be actively growing, that might be a sign of overwatering. Make sure the soil is just slightly moist to the touch rather than waterlogged.

III. How to Get to Bloom

Be patient, as it can take a year or two for this plant to mature and flower, especially when propagating new plants with small offsets that are split off from the main bulb. Healthy, mature bulbs will normally produce flowers from stalks that quickly shoot up from the leaf clusters in August or September.

Provided the plants are getting enough sun, the most common reason for a red spider lily failing to bloom is because the bulbs are planted too deep. Try replanting them so the necks of the bulbs just barely protrude up from the ground.

Unusually severe winters can cause these bulbs to temporarily refuse to flower. Provided the temperatures were not too severe, the plants normally return to a typical bloom pattern in subsequent seasons. However, extreme cold may permanently kill the bulbs.

These plants also need rich soil, and twice-a-year feeding—in spring and just after blooming is completed – will help ensure good flowering.

IV. Uses and Benefits

The red Spider lily can be found in late summer flower gardens where it is prized for blooming throughout winter. It is best planted in beds and borders of cottage gardens, although it may also be planted in big containers. Companion plants should be spread widely apart from the red Spider lily and can include Agave, Fern, Dwarf Hosta, and Echeveria.

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