Cold Hardy Banana (Musa ‘Basjoo’)

Cold Hardy Bananas, also commonly referred to as hardy banana trees, Japanese fiber bananas, or simply hardy Musa, represent a fascinating group of plants within the Musaceae family. Scientifically known as Musa basjoo and other related cultivars, these plants offer a surprising solution for gardeners in temperate climates who long for a touch of the tropics.

At Gardencenterpoint.com, we understand the desire to push horticultural boundaries. This guide provides everything you need to know about selecting, planting, and caring for cold hardy banana plants, ensuring success even where traditional bananas would fail. Discover where to buy cold hardy banana plants and learn the secrets of cultivating your own hardy banana rhizomes.

What is Cold Hardy Banana Tree?

The allure of growing bananas often seems restricted to those living in consistently warm, tropical regions. However, the world of cold hardy bananas opens a new realm of possibilities. These aren’t your typical supermarket Cavendish bananas. They are selected and bred for their ability to withstand temperatures significantly lower than their tropical counterparts. While most won’t produce edible fruit in colder zones, their dramatic foliage and rapid growth make them exceptional ornamental additions to the landscape.

Common name	Japanese Fiber Banana, Hardy Banana, Cold Hardy Banana
Botanical name	Musa basjoo
Family	Musaceae
Genus	Musa
Species	basjoo
Origin	Ryukyu Islands, Japan (although often associated with Japan, the species likely originated further south)
Life cycle	Herbaceous Perennial (dies back to the rhizome in winter, regrows in spring)
Plant type	Forb/Herb
Hardiness zone	5-10 (with winter protection in zones 5-7; some sources say zone 6 without protection)
Sunlight	Full Sun (6-8 hours or more) to Partial Shade (tolerates some shade, but growth may be slower)
Maintenance	Moderate (requires regular watering, fertilizing, and winter protection in colder zones)
Water	High (requires consistently moist soil, especially during hot weather)
Drainage	Well-Drained (essential to prevent root rot)
Spacing	8-10 feet (allows for mature size and spread)
Fruiting period	Rarely fruits in colder zones; may produce small, inedible fruit in warmer zones (8-10). (Musa ‘Helen’s Hybrid is an exception and produces edible fruit.)
Height	10-18 feet (Musa sikkimensis is similar; Musa velutina and Musella lasiocarpa are significantly shorter, around 4-6 feet)
Growth rate	Fast (can grow several feet in a single season)
Flower color	Yellowish-cream (often hidden by the leaves; Musa velutina has pink flowers; Musella lasiocarpa has a prominent yellow, lotus-like flower)
Leaf color	Green (large, paddle-shaped leaves; Musa sikkimensis has reddish-brown undersides)
Stem color	Green (technically a pseudostem, formed by tightly packed leaf sheaths)
Flower benefit	Primarily grown for foliage; flowers are not a significant ornamental feature in colder zones. (Musa velutina and Musella offer more ornamental blooms.)
Garden style	Tropical, Contemporary, Container Gardening
Uses	Specimen Plant, Accent Plant, Container Plant, Tropical Border
Soil pH	Slightly acidic to neutral (6.0-7.0)
Propagation	Division of rhizomes
Pest and Disease Resistance	Generally resistant; may be susceptible to spider mites, aphids, root rot, and nematodes (see detailed section above).
Toxicity	Non-toxic to humans and pets.

The key difference lies in their root systems. While the top growth (pseudostem) of a cold hardy banana may die back in freezing temperatures, the underground rhizome remains alive and protected, ready to send up new shoots when warmer weather returns. This resilience is what allows them to survive and even thrive in USDA hardiness zones as low as zone 5, with proper care and protection. This is in stark contrast to the majority of banana varieties that demand consistently warm temperatures, typically zones 9-11.

A study conducted by the University of Georgia Extension found that Musa basjoo, the most common cold hardy banana, can survive winter temperatures down to -5°F (-20°C) with adequate mulching. The study also highlighted the importance of choosing the right planting location and providing proper winter protection to ensure survival and vigorous growth in the following spring.

This section is going to describe the difference between cold-hardy bananas, and the banana trees known to grow in warmer climates.

Distinguishing Characteristics of Cold Hardy Bananas

Feature	Cold Hardy Bananas (e.g., Musa basjoo)	Tropical Bananas (e.g., Cavendish)
Cold Tolerance	Down to -5°F (-20°C) with protection	Typically 30°F (-1°C) or higher
Fruit Production	Rarely produces edible fruit in colder zones	Produces edible fruit reliably
Primary Use	Ornamental foliage	Fruit production
Rhizome Survival	High; essential for overwintering	Lower; typically not grown for rhizome
Leaf Size	Large, paddle-shaped, up to 10 feet long	Varies by variety

Cold Hardy Banana Varieties

Selecting the right variety is crucial for success. Here are some of the most popular and reliable cold hardy banana options:

• Musa basjoo (Japanese Fiber Banana): The undisputed king of cold hardy bananas. It’s the most widely available and tested variety, known for its exceptional cold tolerance and rapid growth. It can reach heights of 10-18 feet, creating a dramatic tropical statement.
• Musa sikkimensis (Darjeeling Banana): Originating from the Himalayas, this variety offers excellent cold hardiness and striking foliage with reddish-brown undersides. It’s slightly less hardy than Musa basjoo but still a great choice for colder climates.
• Musa velutina (Pink Banana): While less cold hardy than basjoo or sikkimensis, Musa velutina is prized for its ornamental value. It produces small, pink, fuzzy bananas (inedible) and attractive pink flowers. It’s best suited for zones 7 and above.
• Musella lasiocarpa (Chinese Yellow Banana): Technically not a true banana (it’s in the same family but a different genus), Musella lasiocarpa offers exceptional cold hardiness and a unique, lotus-like flower. It’s a shorter plant, reaching only about 6 feet tall.
• Musa ‘Helen’s Hybrid.’ This is a relatively new hybrid that some claim is the best tasting of all the hardy bananas.
• Musa itinerans. There are multiple forms of Musa itinerans available, some of which are proving to be hardy in zone 7.

Comparing Cold Hardiness and Growth Characteristics

Variety	Cold Hardiness (USDA Zone)	Mature Height	Notable Features
Musa basjoo	5-10 (with protection)	10-18 feet	Most cold-hardy, fast-growing
Musa sikkimensis	6-10 (with protection)	10-15 feet	Reddish-brown leaf undersides
Musa velutina	7-10	4-6 feet	Pink, fuzzy bananas, pink flowers
Musella lasiocarpa	6-10 (with protection)	4-6 feet	Lotus-like yellow flower, not a true banana
Musa ‘Helen’s Hybrid	7-10	6-8 feet	Best tasting fruit of the hardy bananas
Musa itinerans	7-10	8-12 Feet	One of the hardiest fruiting species

Planting Your Cold Hardy Banana

Proper planting is essential for establishing a healthy and resilient cold hardy banana.

1. Timing: The best time to plant is in the spring, after the last frost, when the soil has warmed up. This gives the plant ample time to establish its root system before the next winter.
2. Location: Choose a sunny location with at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Cold hardy bananas also benefit from protection from strong winds, which can shred their large leaves. A south-facing location near a building or wall can provide additional warmth and shelter.
3. Soil: Well-drained soil is crucial. Amend heavy clay soils with compost and other organic matter to improve drainage. A slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0-7.0) is ideal.
4. Planting Depth: Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. Place the plant in the hole so that the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Backfill with the amended soil, gently firming it around the roots.
5. Watering: Water thoroughly after planting, and keep the soil consistently moist, especially during the first growing season. Avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot.
6. Spacing: Space plants 8-10 feet apart to allow for their mature size.

Detailed Planting Instructions with Measurements

Step	Action	Measurement/Details
1. Site Selection	Choose a sunny, sheltered location.	6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day; protection from strong winds.
2. Soil Preparation	Amend heavy clay soil with compost and organic matter.	Improve drainage; aim for a pH of 6.0-7.0.
3. Hole Digging	Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and the same depth.	Example: If the root ball is 12 inches wide, dig a hole 24 inches wide and 12 inches deep.
4. Planting	Place the plant in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level.	Ensure the root ball is not planted too deep or too shallow.
5. Backfilling	Fill the hole with amended soil, gently firming around the roots.	Avoid air pockets around the roots.
6. Watering	Water thoroughly after planting.	Soak the soil to settle it around the roots.
7. Spacing	Space plants appropriately.	8-10 feet apart for Musa basjoo and similar large varieties; adjust for smaller varieties.

Caring for Cold Hardy Banana

Consistent care is key to maximizing growth and ensuring winter survival.

• Watering: Cold hardy bananas are thirsty plants, especially during hot, dry weather. Water deeply and regularly, allowing the soil to dry slightly between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to provide 1-2 inches of water per week, either through rainfall or irrigation.
• Fertilizing: These are heavy feeders. Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 or a fertilizer formulated for tropical plants. Apply fertilizer every 4-6 weeks during the growing season, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Mulching: Apply a thick layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or straw, around the base of the plant. This helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and insulate the roots during winter. Maintain a mulch layer of 4-6 inches, keeping it a few inches away from the pseudostem.
• Pruning: Remove any dead or damaged leaves throughout the growing season. After the first frost, you have two options:
  • Option 1 (For maximum cold hardiness): Cut back the pseudostem to 2-3 feet above the ground. This removes the frost-damaged tissue and makes it easier to protect the remaining stem.
  • Option 2 (For potential pseudostem survival): Leave the pseudostem intact. In milder climates or with excellent protection, the pseudostem may survive the winter and produce new growth in the spring. This is more of a gamble, but it can result in a larger plant the following year.

Fertilizing Schedule and Mulching Recommendations

Season	Fertilizing	Mulching
Spring	Begin fertilizing when new growth appears.	Replenish mulch to a depth of 4-6 inches.
Summer	Fertilize every 4-6 weeks.	Maintain mulch layer; water thoroughly.
Fall	Stop fertilizing about 6 weeks before first frost.	Add extra mulch for winter protection.
Winter	No fertilizing.	Ensure a thick mulch layer (see Winter Protection).

Winter Protection

This is the most critical aspect of growing cold hardy bananas in zones below their natural hardiness.

1. After the First Frost: Cut back the pseudostem (optional, see Pruning above) and remove any dead leaves.
2. Mulch Heavily: Apply a very thick layer of mulch (12-18 inches) over the entire root zone, extending out several feet from the base of the plant. Straw, hay, or shredded leaves are excellent choices.
3. Additional Protection (Optional, but recommended in colder zones):
   • Cage: Create a wire cage around the remaining pseudostem and fill it with straw or leaves. This provides an extra layer of insulation.
   • Wrap: Wrap the pseudostem with burlap or frost cloth. This helps protect it from wind and extreme cold.
   • Cover: In very cold climates, you can cover the entire mulched area with a tarp or plastic sheeting to further insulate the roots. Be sure to secure the covering to prevent it from blowing away.

Step-by-Step Winter Protection Guide

Step	Action	Material/Details
1. Post-Frost Prep	Cut back pseudostem (optional) and remove dead leaves.	Cut to 2-3 feet or leave intact, depending on climate and desired outcome.
2. Heavy Mulching	Apply a 12-18 inch layer of mulch over the root zone.	Straw, hay, or shredded leaves are ideal.
3. Caging (Optional)	Create a wire cage around the pseudostem and fill with insulating material.	Use chicken wire or similar material; fill with straw or leaves.
4. Wrapping (Optional)	Wrap the pseudostem with burlap or frost cloth.	Provides additional protection from wind and cold.
5. Covering (Optional)	Cover the entire mulched area with a tarp or plastic sheeting.	Secure the covering to prevent it from blowing away; use in very cold climates.

Pests and Diseases: Common Issues and Solutions

Cold hardy bananas are generally resistant to pests and diseases, but some problems can occur.

• Spider Mites: These tiny pests can infest the leaves, causing yellowing and stippling. They thrive in hot, dry conditions. Control them with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
• Aphids: These small, sap-sucking insects can also infest the leaves. Control them with insecticidal soap or a strong blast of water.
• Root Rot: This fungal disease can occur in poorly drained soil. Prevent it by ensuring good drainage and avoiding overwatering.
• Nematodes: There are numerous types of nematodes that can affect banana trees. These organisms are often microscopic, so professional soil testing may be required.

Identifying and Treating Common Problems

Pest/Disease	Symptoms	Treatment
Spider Mites	Yellowing, stippling of leaves; fine webbing may be present.	Insecticidal soap, neem oil, miticide.
Aphids	Small, soft-bodied insects on leaves; may cause distortion.	Insecticidal soap, strong blast of water, horticultural oil.
Root Rot	Yellowing, wilting leaves; soft, mushy roots.	Improve drainage, avoid overwatering; fungicide may be necessary in severe cases.
Nematodes	Yellowing of leaves. Stunted Growth	Soil Test, Crop Rotation, Nematicides

Propagating Cold Hardy Bananas

Cold hardy bananas are easily propagated by division.

1. Timing: The best time to divide is in the spring, when new growth is emerging.
2. Process: Carefully dig up the entire plant, or a portion of it, using a shovel or garden fork. Separate the rhizomes, ensuring that each division has at least one growing point (a “pup” or shoot). Replant the divisions as described in the Planting section.

Step-by-Step Propagation Guide

Step	Action	Details
1. Timing	Divide in spring when new growth emerges.	This allows the divisions to establish before winter.
2. Digging	Carefully dig up the plant or a portion of it.	Use a shovel or garden fork; avoid damaging the rhizomes.
3. Separation	Separate the rhizomes, ensuring each division has a growing point.	Use a sharp knife or saw if necessary; each division should have roots and at least one shoot.
4. Replanting	Replant the divisions as described in the Planting section.	Follow the same planting guidelines as for a new plant.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

• Q: Will my cold hardy banana produce edible fruit?
  • A: In most colder zones (5-7), it’s unlikely. Cold hardy bananas are primarily grown for their ornamental foliage. However, in warmer zones (8-10), some varieties, like Musa basjoo, may produce small, seedy fruit that is technically edible but not particularly palatable. The Musa ‘Helen’s Hybrid is reported to have excellent flavor.
• Q: How fast do cold hardy bananas grow?
  • A: They are very fast-growing during the warm months. They can grow several feet in a single season, especially with adequate water and fertilizer.
• Q: How often should I water my cold hardy banana?
  • A: Water deeply and regularly, especially during hot, dry weather. Aim for 1-2 inches of water per week.
• Q: What kind of fertilizer should I use?
  • A: Use a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, or a fertilizer formulated for tropical plants.
• Q: When should I protect my cold hardy banana for winter?
  • A: After the first frost, but before the ground freezes solid.