The Echeveria is one plant species you must get your hands on. These native desert plants, known as hens-and-chics, are gorgeous with their unique colors and make for a great house plant, even if you do not have a green thumb. So, no matter what, Echeveria plants you decide to buy, this article covers all the basic care for Echeveria.
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Echeveria is a large genus of flowering plants in the family Crassulaceae, native to semi-desert areas of Central America, Mexico and northwestern South America.
Echeveria is named for Atanasio Echeverría y Godoy, a botanical illustrator who contributed to Flora Mexicana.
Plants may be evergreen or deciduous. Flowers on short stalks (cymes) arise from compact rosettes of succulent fleshy, often brightly coloured leaves. Species are polycarpic, meaning that they may flower and set seed many times over the course of their lifetimes. Often numerous offsets are produced, and are commonly known as “hen and chicks”, which can also refer to other genera, such as Sempervivum, that are significantly different from Echeveria.
Many species of Echeveria serve important environmental roles, such as those of host plants for butterflies. For example, the butterfly Callophrys xami uses several species of Echeveria, such as Echevelia gibbiflora, for suitable host plants. Even more, these plants are integral to the oviposition process of C. xami and some other butterfly species as well.
Many Echeveria species are popular as ornamental garden plants. They are drought-resistant, although they do better with regular deep watering and fertilizing. Most will tolerate shade and some frost, although hybrids tend to be less tolerant. Most lose their lower leaves in winter; as a result, after a few years, the plants lose their compact appearance and need to be re-rooted or propagated. In addition, if not removed, the shed leaves may decay, harboring fungus that can then infect the plant.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Echeverias require a substantial amount of light to thrive. They need at least four to five hours of bright, direct sunlight daily—ideally six.1 If echeverias do not receive full sun, they will become elongated and leggy, and it is unlikely they will flower. Move your echeveria outdoors during the summer months to help it flourish. If you move your plant outside after overwintering indoors, harden off the plant, giving it a gradual transition. Intense afternoon sunlight can cause sunburn, so place your plant where it receives a bit of shade when the sun is strongest.
Temperature and Humidity
Echeverias thrive in hot, dry conditions. They do not tolerate cold temperatures or cold drafts well. Too much humidity can lead to root rot. The average household temperature and humidity levels are sufficient for echeverias but do not place them in a humid location, like a bathroom or laundry room. Most echeverias are cold hardy to USDA zone 9a and can grow in the ground with average winter temperatures no colder than 50 F. In wintery weather regions, move the plant inside when frost threatens.
Watering
Watering is the most critical aspect of proper echeveria care. Echeverias, like most succulents, do not require much water, but they also don’t like to be too dry. If the leaves begin to wrinkle, it’s an obvious sign the plant needs water. It is better to under-water echeverias than to overwater them, as they can quickly succumb to root rot if overwatered.
Wait until the soil has dried out completely before watering your echeveria, and then give it a good soaking by letting the water stream through the pot’s drainage holes. Depending on the size of the plant, it could be 1/2 cup to 1 cup of water every seven to 10 days during the growing season. If you use a saucer under the pot, make sure to empty any standing water that drains through. Echeveria will need to be watered during the summer months more frequently than in winter. In winter, water just enough to prevent wrinkled leaves, about once a month.
Soil
Echeverias require a well-draining, porous growing medium to keep excess moisture away from the roots. Standard cactus potting mixes, which can be found at most nurseries and garden centers, are sufficient for echeverias. You can create a cactus mix by combining three parts of regular potting soil with two parts of coarse sand and one part of perlite. Echeverias make ideal houseplants and grow well in garden beds, as long as the soil is well drained, and the pH is 6.0 or slightly acidic.
Fertilizing
Regular fertilizing is not a requirement for growing echeveria, as they are accustomed to growing in nutrient-poor soil. They are susceptible to fertilizer burn if over-fertilized. Occasional fertilizing during the spring and summer can help echeverias during their active growing period but be cautious. Use a cactus and succulent fertilizer or a controlled-release balanced 20-20-20 liquid fertilizer diluted two to four times more than usual. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer for young plants.
Pruning
Pruning echeveria from time to time can help prevent rot, encourage new growth, and help your plant live longer. Generally, echeverias do not require regular pruning, but if your echeveria becomes leggy and elongated due to a lack of sunlight, trim it down to keep it looking attractive.
Pruning is best done at the beginning of their growing season; however, you can prune anytime. Eventually, the lower leaves will dry up and die, which is the plant’s natural life cycle. Remove the dead leaves by gently pulling the dead leaves away with your fingers so they do not rot in place. Removing the leaves may also help encourage new growth along the stem.
Propagation
It’s fun to make more echeveria plants. They can be easily propagated by leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, offsets, or sowing seeds. Taking cuttings is an excellent way to prevent a plant from getting leggy. The best time to take cuttings is in spring. Here’s how:
To propagate from leaf or stem cutting or offsets:
- You’ll need a tray, cactus mix, a plastic bag or clear dome, and a pot with ample drainage holes. If cutting a stem, you will need sterilized scissors or pruning snips.
- Carefully separate a leaf from the plant’s main stem by gently wiggling it side to side until it pops off. Always propagate more than one leaf, as not all will grow into a new plant.
- If taking a stem cutting, snip off a stem that has become leggy.
- If using an offset or offshoot (pup) growing off the main stem, carefully snip it or pinch it off the main branch.
- Lay the leaf cutting, stem cutting, or offset flat on a tray and allow it to callous over for a few days before planting the calloused end in the pot filled with succulent or cacti mix.
- Mist the soil, and cover the pot until the new plant sprouts. Place it in a sunny location—but avoid direct sunlight.
- Once roots have developed (you will see new growth), water sparingly as you would with a mature succulent.
- After about a month, a tiny rosette will begin to develop at the end of the leaf. Do not separate the leaf from the rosette, as it supplies the new succulent with energy and nutrients. Over time, the old leaf will shrivel and die as the new succulent becomes more independent.
How to Grow From Seed
Scatter seeds, leaving space between each of the seeds on a bed of soil (60%), grit or sand (30%), and perlite (10%) or a succulent and cactus mix. You can use a terracotta pot or any container with ample drainage holes. Moisten the soil and keep it moist by covering it with plastic wrap or placing it into a zip-closing plastic bag.
Place the pot in a bright room but not in direct sunlight. Uncover the container once a day for an hour to give the plant ventilation. An ideal germination temperature is around 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
After about three weeks, the seeds should start germinating. Once the seeds have sprouted and tiny rosettes form, remove the plastic covering. Keep the soil slightly moist (never let it dry) and provide ample light (but not direct sun). As seedlings, give them water every three to four days once the soil dries up.
Potting and Repotting
Echeveria plants do not require frequent repotting and should only be repotted once they have outgrown their previous container. If repotting, it is usually recommended in the spring as the plant will enter its active growing period.
To repot an echeveria plant, ensure the soil is completely dry before removing it from its potting container. Gently remove the plant from the pot. Carefully remove the excess soil from the roots before placing the plant in its new pot. Remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading out the roots as you repot. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Wait a week before watering after repotting to avoid the risk of root rot.
Overwintering
Echeveria cannot survive the winter outside. It can’t handle temperatures below freezing. The best way to overwinter Echeveria is to bring your plant inside. Echeveria will not need to be kept extremely warm but at least above 45 degrees. It will go dormant during the cooler months and will not need as much water, only needing water about once a month.
How to Get to Bloom
An echeveria will not flower until it’s matured for at least four seasons. When it makes its ornate flower stalks, it’s usually in the spring or summer. Deadhead or remove wilted flowers regularly. This step isn’t mandatory but will help stimulate the plant to produce new flowers. Echeveria flowers do not have a scent.
Fertilizer can help echeveria flowers. Use a thin, diluted high-phosphorus formula for flowering, like a 5–10–5 ratio fertilizer (or even 10-15-10). Apply it monthly from April until September.
If outdoors, it needs at least six hours of sun. Indoors, position it near a sunny window or use a grow light. Leggy or spindly echeveria usually won’t produce flowers; low light is typically the cause. Also, too hot or too cold temperatures will discourage a plant from blooming. Ensure it has well-draining soil since soggy feet kills flower production and, eventually, the plant.
Pests and Diseases
Common Pests and Plant Diseases
Pests rarely seek out echeveria, but most succulents are susceptible to fungus gnats, spider mites, and mealy bugs. Fungus gnats look like little black flies that hover above the soil. Spider mites are tiny dust-like creatures that usually dot the underside of leaves; their tell-tale sign is fine webbing on the plant. Mealybugs have a white, cottony, or waxy appearance. Insecticidal soaps and neem oil can get rid of these insect infestations.
When succulents fall victim to diseases, fungal issues usually take them out. Cold or damp conditions or overwatering are usually to blame, causing rot. Rotten tissues turn red, brown, or black and usually turn soggy, slimy, and smell bad. You will need to restructure your watering routine, reducing quantity or frequency.
To treat the rot, remove the plant from its pot, wash the roots thoroughly, and cut away dead roots. Allow the plant to air for 24 hours and repot it in a new or sterilized pot with fresh soil. Give the plant a fungicidal soil treatment according to the package instructions.
Common Problems
Most Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and offering plenty of light will help ensure success.
Discolored, Soft Growth
Browning or blackening of leaves or parts of the plant or mushiness is usually brought on by too much humidity or overwatering. Stem rot disease causes soft, mushy stems. If stem rot has developed, your plant has a fungal infection. Fungal infections are usually fatal, but you can try to save the plant by unpotting it, cutting away rotted roots, stems, and leaves, airing it out, and repotting it in fresh soil with a fungicide application.
Yellowing, Wilting, or Leaf Drop
Overwatering will cause leaves to appear bleached. Leaves may also wilt, swell, or fall off when given too much water. Also, check the undersides and crevices of leaves for insect activity. Bugs can cause plants to lose vigor and kill a plant if left unchecked.
Limp, Shriveling Leaves
If echeveria leaves start to shrivel or wrinkle, it is likely lacking water. The plant will begin to look droopy and wilted. Leaves will lose their plump, firm feeling. You might even notice dried-up, brown, dead leaves toward the bottom of the plant. Most succulents can bounce back after a thorough watering.
III. Uses and Benefits
Echeveria is often used in rock gardens, succulent gardens, container gardens, and even as indoor houseplants. They are also popular in green roofs and living wall projects due to their low maintenance needs and drought tolerance.