These elegant, easy-to-grow plants get recognized by their long, stiff leaves with pointed edges. Like other plants in the Asparagaceae family, snake plants bloom with white flowers. However, outside its native habitat, it’s rare to see a snake plant bloom. Snake plants are one of the most popular types of houseplant because they’re easy to care for, can withstand low-light and bright environments, and add a splash of color and life to an indoor space.
I. Appearance and Characteristics
Dracaena trifasciata is a species of flowering plant in the family Asparagaceae, native to tropical West Africa from Nigeria east to the Congo. It is most commonly known as the snake plant, Saint George’s sword, mother-in-law’s tongue, and viper’s bowstring hemp, among other names. Until 2017, it was known under the synonym Sansevieria trifasciata.
It is an evergreen perennial plant forming dense strands, spreading by way of its creeping rhizome, which is sometimes above ground, sometimes underground. Its stiff leaves grow vertically from a basal rosette. Mature leaves are dark green with light gray-green cross-banding and usually range from 70–90 centimeters (2.3 – 3.0 ft) long and 5–6 centimeters (2.0 – 2.4 in) wide, though they can reach heights above 2 m (6 ft) in optimal conditions.
The specific epithet trifasciata means “three bundles”.
The plant exchanges oxygen and carbon dioxide using the crassulacean acid metabolism process, which allows them to withstand drought. The microscopic pores on the plant’s leaves, called the stomata and used to exchange gasses, are opened only at night to prevent water from escaping via evaporation in the hot sun.
This plant is often kept as a houseplant due to its non-demanding maintenance; they can survive with very little water and sun.
To get this plant to go into bloom outside of its natural environment is difficult. Replicating its natural environment is possible. Its flowers vary from greenish white to cream-colored — some are fragrant at night, others not at all — and have a sticky texture.
II. How to Grow and Care
Sunlight
Snake plants grow best with eight to ten hours of indirect sunlight or a few hours of early-morning direct sunlight. Too much direct sun can burn the plant and damage its leaves. Snake plants tolerate some shade, but lack of light can stunt growth and dilute the plant’s color.
Temperature and Humidity
Snake plants grow best in warm temperatures between 70°F and 90°F. Keep plants away from cold drafts.
They won’t tolerate frost, and prolonged exposure to less than 50°F can kill the plant. They’ll do fine with average household humidity between 30 and 50 percent.
Watering
Water your snake plant when the soil has completely dried out, then water deeply. During winter, check the plant’s soil mix every two weeks or so—the plant might need to be watered only once a month. If you notice its leaves are brittle and dry, water immediately.
During spring and summer when the plant is in active growth, watering every two weeks or so is usually sufficient. Keep in mind that overwatering is the quickest way to kill a snake plant. Too much water or letting the plant sit in water will rot its root system. Yellowing leaves are an early sign of overwatering.
Soil
As a houseplant, snake plants prefer a loose, well-drained potting soil mix. They do well in sandier soil which makes all-purpose cactus potting soil a good choice. Avoid soil mixes that contain a high percentage of peat, which can retain too much water.
Fertilizing
Feed your snake plant once in spring and once in mid-summer with a balanced, slow-release 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted to half strength. Do not fertilize in winter.
Pruning
Prune snake plants during the growing season to encourage new growth. To control height, remove the tallest leaves at the soil line with a sterile cutting tool. Damaged leaves can be removed at any time, however, winter pruning can cause stress.
Propagation
Propagate your snake plant in spring or summer by cuttings or division when plants are at least four inches tall. New shoots that emerge can also be potted independently. Here’s how to propagate your snake plant.
How to Propagate Snake Plant by Division
- Gather a sharp clean knife, a clean pot, and potting soil that is designed for growing cacti and succulents.
- Remove the plant from the pot and place it on a flat surface. Brush soil from the root structure or rhizome.
- Use the knife to divide the plant into sections, keeping the roots for each section intact.
- Replant sections into clean pots filled with the potting soil.
- Water and place in a partly sunny location.
- Offshoots or pups are baby plants emerging from the soil. Follow directions for root division to remove pups and replant each in its own pot.
How to Propagate Snake Plant from Leaf Cuttings
- Use a sterile cutting tool to remove a long, healthy leaf at its base.
- Submerge the cut end of the leaf in a clean jar of water and set the jar in a partly sunny location. Or allow the cut end to callous over for 24 hours and then pot it cut-end down.
- When using the water rooting method, refresh water every two weeks.
- Roots develop in one to four months. Once they reach one inch long, plant the cutting in cactus potting mix.
- Water and place in a spot with bright, indirect light.
Potting and Repotting
Repot your snake plant every three to five years, or when you see roots growing out of the holes in the bottom of the pot. Other signs that your plant needs repotting are water draining out too quickly, roots filling the entire container, or stunted growth and a dull appearance.
- Type of Pot
Snake plants prefer wide, shallow pots with plenty of drainage holes. The container diameter should be roughly twice the size of the root ball. Choose a sturdy pot made from ceramic, terracotta, or clay, as strong roots can crack and break plastic pots. Terra cotta pots wick away excess moisture, which can help prevent overwatering.
- When to Repot
It’s time to repot again into a container two inches wider when roots become overcrowded or the plant outgrows its original pot. The best time to repot is in spring. When repotting a snake plant, place it at the same level as it was in the original pot.
Overwintering
Snake plants don’t tolerate temperatures lower than 50°F. If you are growing the plant outdoors, bring it indoors and keep it in a warm place where it’s protected from cold drafts. As the plant enters winter dormancy, reduce watering and allow soil to dry out completely before watering.
Pests and Diseases
Common Pests
Snake plants are susceptible to common houseplant pests such as scales, gnats, spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, and whiteflies.1 Most can be removed by hand or with a gentle spray of water. Treat infestations with neem oil.
Common Problems
Snake plants are one of the easiest plants to maintain and can last for many years. Most problems are caused by overwatering, which can lead to fungal infections and root rot.2
- Foul-smelling Soil
When soil develops a foul odor, the plant likely has root rot.3 Remove the plant from its pot and inspect the roots to determine if it can be saved. Cut away any brown, mushy roots and leaves, then repot the healthy portion of the rhizome.
- Yellow or Brown Leaves
Healthy snake plant leaves are green with cream, yellow, or white edges. Yellow or brown leaves indicate overwatering, pests, or root rot. Avoid these conditions by maintaining a proper watering schedule only when the soil is dry.
- Curling Leaves
Thrips are a common pest that can cause curling leaves.4 Cut away severely affected leaves and spray the plant with neem oil to keep these tiny pests at bay.
- Leaves Falling Over or Drooping
Healthy snake plant leaves grow upward and stand erect, but too much water, insufficient light, or poor potting material can cause leaves to droop or flop over. Move the plant to a brighter location, reduce watering frequency, and replace the soil with a mix that drains better.
III. Uses and Benefits
- Ornamental uses
Like some other members of its genus, D. trifasciata yields bowstring hemp, a strong plant fiber once used to make bowstrings.
The NASA Clean Air Study found D. trifasciata has the potential to filter indoor air, removing 4 of the 5 main toxins involved in the effects of sick building syndrome. However, its rate of filtration is too slow for practical indoor use.
- Medicinal uses
In South Africa, it is also used to treat ear infections.
- Cultural significance
In its native range in Africa, Dracaena trifasciata specimens with yellow stripes on the leaf margins are associated with Ọya, the female orisha of storms. In Nigeria, the plant is commonly linked with Ògún, the orisha of war, and is used in rituals to remove the evil eye.
In Brazil, where it is known as espada de São Jorge (“Saint George’s sword”), it is grown outside houses to ward off evil that might harm the home (as is Dracaena angolensis, Saint George’s spear). The plant plays an important part in the Afro-Brazilian syncretic religion Umbanda, also representing the orisha Ogum (Ã’gún), as Ogum is syncretized with Saint George. Some yellow-edged varieties of D. trifasciata are called espada de Santa-Bárbara (“Sword of Saint Barbara”) and are associated with Iansã, the Umbanda name for Ọya, Saint Barbara’s syncretic orisha pair. These types are grown to protect against inclement weather.
This plant is visible on the porch in American Grant Wood’s 1930 painting, American Gothic.